Vientiane sometimes feels like a VERY small town. News travels quickly, and I’m guessing there are about 2 degrees of separation between each expat here. So when a Belgian restaurateur started driving to Thailand each weekend to buy mussels that he serves up nine different ways with a selection of imported beers, his Mekong-side café soon became a hot spot. Tony and I tried it out Saturday night. We ordered one batch of mussels “escargot style,” which means broiled with butter, garlic and breadcrumbs, and another batch in a white wine cream sauce. Accompanied by fries, a couple Hoegaarden beers, and a lively ambience, it was a delicious departure from the usual Lao fare.
The restaurant is called Chok Dee, which means “good luck” in Lao.
Dam Daytrip
Tony and I have spent the last week of our long winter break hanging around Vientiane. We ride our bikes in the countryside, walk around town, try new restaurants and chill out at home. One of our favorite places to relax is at our patio table under the mango tree. Unfortunately, that little oasis has been transformed into auditory hell, thanks to a construction project next door. When Tony walked over to check it out, he discovered they’re using recycled lumber and hand-planing each board one at a time. In case you’ve never heard the sound of a hand-planer, it’s comparable to fingernails on a chalkboard with the volume on max. So when we’re home, we stay inside with the doors and windows shut tight in a futile effort to drown out the nerve-shattering noise.
That’s why it was such a relief when another teaching couple, Tom and Karel, invited us for a daytrip to the Nam Ngum Reservoir, about 90 kilometers north of Vientiane. The reservoir was created in 1971 by the construction of a hydroelectric dam across the Nam Ngum River.
They picked us up in their newly overhauled car, and we headed out of town. Soon our little city was out of sight, out of mind. Farmers wearing conical woven hats stood in knee-deep water to plant clumps of rice. Water buffalo pulled plows through heavy mud. Villagers rested in the shade of thatched-roof platforms raised above the rice paddies. We stopped for lunch alongside the river, and then Tom drove up into the hills. Far away from the hand planer and the traffic of Vientiane, we sipped sodas at a peaceful guesthouse overlooking the reservoir.
Lunch on the Nam Ngum River.
Overlooking the reservoir.
Kooky Karaoke
When we lived in China, one of the Filipina teaching assistants sold me a karaoke system. She had heard me wishing for one, and she said, “All Filipinos have karaoke! I have two.”
It’s so fantastic and so simple. There’s a microphone and a book with thousands of song titles. You just plug the mic into the TV, flip through the book, pick a song, and punch the song code into the microphone keypad. Voila! Magic!
The music is a little tinny, the lyrics on the TV are sometimes just a wee bit wrong, and the background graphics can be strange (a bright-eyed lemur, Big Ben, a canal in the Netherlands…). But it’s still heaps of fun.
On Friday, I invited some Lao girlfriends over to play. They did not mess around.
They brought a ridiculous amount of yummy treats, and then they got down to business. Huddled over the songbook, they made a list of their choices and then took turns in the spotlight. Mai was a bit of a mic hog, but with good reason. She had a gorgeous singing voice. Actually, most of them did. I was concerned that they wouldn’t like the song selections, but they knew more of the titles than I did.
Ton had brought a boy named Phu. He didn’t speak English, and he just sat in a chair clutching a pillow and taking pictures on command for the whole evening. He was so courteous and sweet. After he drank some Pepsi, he self-consciously slipped into the kitchen to wash his glass. As usual, Tony greeted the first arrivals and then bolted.
Carbo-loading for the songfest. Ton, Not, Lae and Nang chow down on the snacks.
Keo, Addie and Ton pick songs.
My mic is a prop. It’s not even plugged in. That’s Keo and Nang in the back; Ton, Lae, Mai and moi in the front.
YMCA!!!
At one point, I noticed the songstress crowd had thinned. That’s when I realized they were using my camera and staging a fashion shoot on my Chinese daybed. Such lovely ladies!
Here, the gang sings “Every Time You Go Away” by Paul Young.
Happy Birthday, ExpatWomen.com!
If you ARE a woman living abroad or you KNOW a woman living abroad, then check out www.ExpatWomen.com, a fantastic website celebrating its third birthday online today. It’s one-stop shopping for interesting articles, travel resources, and captivating blogs by women around the globe.
Here’s what the site says about itself: ExpatWomen.com is a comprehensive, global website helping women living overseas. The site displays 1,000+ content pages, 1,000+ expat women blogs, 200+ readers’ stories, invaluable country resource pages, interviews with successful expat women, loads of motivational articles and an inspirational blog and monthly newsletter.
The site presently has a “Success Story” feature on Tess Johnston, an American diplomat living in Shanghai. I met Tess and attended several of her presentations during our time in China; she is a fascinating and inspirational woman. But aren’t we all?!!
My 2010 Reading List
Here are the books I’ve read so far in 2010! Click on the book cover to link to the author’s website.
(1) Messenger of Truth by Jacqueline Winspear (completed Jan. 2)
This is the fourth book in a series about Maisie Dobbs, psychologist and investigator, who solves mysteries in post-World War I London. I am a big fan of the who-dunit genre, historical fiction and quirky mystical characters, and this series covers all three bases!
(2) The Coroner’s Lunch by Colin Cotterill (completed Jan. 5)
My friend, Kimbra, recommended this book because it’s set in Vientiane, Laos, where I’m now living. I found it in the Siem Reap, Cambodia, airport, and I devoured it in two days. In some ways, it fits in the same categories as the first book I listed: it’s a historical fiction/detective novel combo with a big dash of mysticism. The main character, Dr. Siri Paiboun, is a feisty and cynical physician who is focused on retirement when the communists appoint him to be State Coroner. I am madly in love with Dr. Siri, and I can not WAIT to get my hands on the other five books in this series.
(3) Misadventure in the Middle East by Henry Hemming (completed Jan. 12)
I slogged through this nonfiction account of 20-somethings traveling and making art in their quest to shatter Western stereotypes of the “Islamic world.” Some parts were fascinating; the guys did have incredible experiences and encounters with interesting people, and they went through an important psychological transformation. I found it a bit slow, but it’s a bestseller and has been shortlisted for “best travel writing” awards, so what do I know?
(4) Last Orders by Graham Swift (completed Jan. 14)
(I couldn’t find an author website, so this book cover links to his Wikipedia page.)
This London-based novel is full of complex characters and richly painted settings. It’s a tale of four men, who carry out their friend’s last wish: to scatter his ashes in the sea. Their interconnectedness is revealed during the journey. I generally find books by Booker Prize winners to be engaging and thought-provoking, and this was no exception. Maybe a little too serious for a girl on vacation, though.
(5) The Black Echo by Michael Connelly (completed Jan. 18)
My reading selections generally alternate between heavier “literature” and mind-candy thrillers. This gritty detective novel was a real page-turner. Compelling characters, insomnia-inducing suspense, and a plot with some Vietnam War history, which is particularly of interest now that I live in that neck of the woods.
(6) Amsterdam by Ian McEwan (completed Jan. 21)
This is my third book by Ian McEwan (after Saturday and Atonement), and I have to say he’s 3 for 3. Winner of the Booker Prize, McEwan is a master of crafting seemingly throw-away lines that capture the essence of the moment. For example: “He concealed a gasp of self-pity behind a loud adult laugh.”
(7) Fasting, Feasting by Anita Desai (completed Jan. 26)
What’s with authors not having their own websites? Click on the book cover to link to Anita Desai’s page at contemporaryauthors.com.
I’m heading to Mumbai in about 10 days for a workshop, so I particularly relished this story set in India and full of references to the clothes, food, religion and traditions. Anita Desai’s style creates a sense of familiarity, taking an exotic setting and making it feel comfortable and almost routine. The American scenes actually felt more foreign to me.
(8) The Coastliners by Joanne Harris (completed Feb. 2)
I must have picked up this book at one of our Shanghai book clubs. It sat on my shelf for quite awhile, but I’m running out of options so I decided to give it a whirl. It was great! I didn’t realize she was the same author who wrote Chocolat (I only saw the movie). One thing I liked about this book was that it was so different from everything else I’ve read lately.
(9) Thirty-Three Teeth by Colin Cotteril (completed Feb. 6)
Well, it’s no secret that I’m nuts for this series about a 70-something coroner in Laos. The author will be the guest speaker at our school’s fund-raising gala next week. Can’t wait to meet him! And can’t wait to read the next book …
(10) Deja Dead by Kathy Reichs (completed Feb. 12)
The main character in this book was the inspiration for the forensic anthropologist in the TV series Bones. I’ve always loved these books, but I’ve been reading them out of order. This one was the first. It scared the pants off me.
(11) The Magicians by Lev Grossman (completed Feb. 21)
Although this book felt like a bubbling brew of Harry Potter, The Lord of the Rings, Catcher in the Rye and a big dollop of the Chronicles of Narnia, it also somehow felt fresh and different. It kept me guessing right up till the last few pages. I’ve heard a sequel is on the way. Looking forward to it!
(12) Committed – A Sceptic Makes Peace with Marriage by Elizabeth Gilbert (completed Feb. 26)
I relished Gilbert’s book Eat, Pray, Love because every page revealed something else we had in common: wanderlust, a quest for meaningful spirituality, a passion for yoga, liberal politics, extreme extrovert tendencies, and so on. I wasn’t sure I would be so pumped about a book on marriage. Parts were a bit repetitive, and sometimes I got bored with her over-the-top fretting (although, I can’t deny it’s another trait we share). However, I thought she deftly wove the history of marriage with her own quirky stories and interesting social research. I appreciated her desire to buck tradition and view marriage as a subversive act. Overall, a good read!
(13) The Elusive Mrs. Pollifax by Dorothy Gilman (completed Feb. 28)
There’s a fantastic little bookstore in Lawrence, Kansas, called The Raven. It specializes in mysteries, and one of the staff members, Rochelle, has known me since my college days at KU. Whenever I visit Kansas, I pop in to the Raven, and Rochelle helps me stock up. She knows what I like to read, and she found another winner in this author. Gilman’s protagonist, Mrs. Pollifax, is a trusting older lady who specializes in growing flowers and occasionally serves as a courier for the CIA. This book takes her to Bulgaria and features just the right mix of history, suspense and whimsy.
(14) Elbow Room by James Alan McPherson (completed March 5)
I’m very slowly working my way through all the Pulitzer Prize-winning fiction, and this collection of short stories about blacks and whites in America won in 1978. I found some of the stories a bit challenging to muddle through and some truly enchanting. Sometimes I stopped and reread passages in awe.
(15) The Narrows by Michael Connelly (completed March 10)
Another riveting detective novel by Connelly (see #5). I needed a fun page-turner during my Team Dai ride. My brain couldn’t focus on anything heavier, so this was perfect.
(16) Birdsong by Sebastian Faulks (completed March 16)
As I’ve mentioned before, historical fiction is one of my favorite genres, and I think this book is destined to become a classic. It traces the experiences of a young Englishman in the First World War. I always know I’m enthralled by a book when I occasionally pause, set it down, and think about the passage I just read.
(17) In Plain Sight by Barbara Block (completed March 18)
I love a good thriller/mystery/detective novel, but I found this one a bit dull. The amateur sleuth, Robin Light, just wasn’t interesting. Two thumbs down.
(18) The Colony of Unrequited Dreams by Wayne Johnston (completed March 27)
I’ve had this book on my shelf for ages, and I kept meaning to read it. It just seemed so heavy. But once I jumped in, I was completely smitten. It now ranks among my all-time favorite reads. So much to love: fantastic description of a completely unfamiliar landscape (Newfoundland), richly drawn multi-layered characters, brilliant irony, and a beautiful story. I’m feeling a bit sad that it had to end.
(19) Disco for the Departed by Colin Cotterill (completed March 29)
Another fabulous Dr. Siri mystery by my author crush. And it’s another hit. Like expensive chocolates, these books are a special treat and over all too quickly. I’m trying to space them out so there will always be one waiting for me.
(20) Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer (completed April 11)
As I’ve mentioned before, I’m not a huge fan of nonfiction, but this classic was a real page-turner. I was actually happy to go on a long flight so I’d have time to really settle in with it. Fascinating, horrifying, titillating, sad, but suspenseful even though the ending is no mystery. I’m looking forward to reading Krakauer’s other books.
(21) White Teeth by Zadie Smith (completed April 17)
This book had received lots of press but mixed reviews from my friends, so it’s been sitting on my shelf for a few years. I took it on vacation with me this week and found it hot and cold. The sharp writing and dry sense of humor sucked me right in, but some of the scenarios were just too drawn-out. There were definitely some interesting twists and unexpected weirdness. Overall, I’d recommend it.
(22) A Palm for Mrs. Pollifax by Dorothy Gilman (completed April 19)
Mrs. Pollifax mysteries always provide a great escape to some interesting part of the world – this time, it’s Switzerland. The plot is unpredictable, and the main character’s easy-going nature creates a fun juxtaposition with the danger she faces. This is the fourth book in the series.
(23) The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Diaz (completed April 30)
At times I found the Spanglish completely unintelligible, but the author’s acerbic commentary on the political goings-on in the D.R. were brilliant. This book is a case study in how to give characters a voice. Diaz made such unlikely choices in writing this novel, such as telling the story from the perspective of the sister’s boyfriend, intertwining a multitude of complicated family histories and pulling the reader away from the plot with copious footnotes. Yet it all worked.
(24) Our Game by John Le Carre (completed May 4)
This was my first book by this master of the spy genre. I found it compelling, but a bit of a slog.
(25) Bones by Jan Burke (completed May 8 )
I had been saving this book because I knew it would be good. Holy cow, it was more than good. I could barely function at work over the last couple days because all I wanted to do was get home at read this book.
(26) The Road by Cormac McCarthy (completed May 12)
I just finished this book, but I found I couldn’t step away from it. I reread the back cover and blurbs inside the front cover. I reread the first page and flipped through, rereading passages and reflecting on the language. I actually found myself stroking the book. It was so horrific and yet beautiful at the same time, the most unfathomable tragedy interwoven with the deepest most profound love.
(27) Anarchy and Old Dogs by Colin Cotterill
Another awesome episode in the life of Dr. Siri. Still savoring this series and trying not to read them all too quickly!
(28) Bones to Ashes by Kathy Reichs
This is another favorite mystery writer, and again, I’m trying to space out her books. Happy to report I’m still enjoying the series.
(29) An Angel for Solomon Singer by Cynthia Rylant
As a teacher, I use Rylant’s books in the classroom a lot, but I had never read this one before. It’s a beautiful story of an older lonely man living in a big city.
(30) Wild Swans by Jung Chan
Having just lived in China for four years, I found this book fascinating. So many of her stories resonated with me as I could see how modern China still reeled from the Mao years. The hardships suffered by three generations of women were shocking, but ultimately hers is an uplifting story of a family that sticks together and supports one another through horrific conditions.
(31) Black and Blue by Anna Quindlen
I’ve always loved Anna Quindlen’s writing style. Everything flows so smoothly, and then BAM – something completely unexpected happens. She captures those emotions and fears that we all keep guarded. This was a beautiful, although sad, tale of an abused wife who makes a break for it with her young son. Loved it.
(32) An Incomplete Revenge by Jacqueline Winspear
I continue to love delving in to these historical novels, which are rich with description of a bygone era. Many of the scenes and much of the language is actually indecipherable to me. But her stories are fascinating with unpredictable endings. Can’t wait to buy her next one when I’m home over the summer!
(33) Curse of the Pogo Stick by Colin Cotterill
Another quirky fascinating read about my favorite Lao coroner. It’s such a treat to read this series while I’m living in its setting.
(34) The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai
I heard Kiran Desai speak at the Literary Festival in Shanghai one year, so I bought this book. It’s a Man Booker Prize winner, but I found Desai to be uninspiring as a speaker and I was a bit put off by the length of time it took her to write this novel. I expected it to be overworked and dull, and in fact, some parts were. Overall, though, it portrayed a diverse group of characters with rich detail, revealing their histories and peeling away their layers. I often set down the book to ponder the powerlessness experienced by people trapped in a certain place and time (in this story, India and New York) while political events tear away traditions, possessions, and relationships.
(35) The Help by Kathryn Stockett
Since reading this book, I’ve been told that it was overhyped. I’m glad I didn’t hear all the hype because I genuinely enjoyed reading it. The relationships between Southern white families and their domestic help in the 60s were so interesting, albeit awful.
(36) New Moon by Stephenie Meyer
(37) Eclipse by Stephenie Meyer
I read these two Twilight books in a row so that I could quickly catch up and go see the Eclipse movie. I have to say I have changed camps: I am totally a fan of Jacob now! Bella is such an idiot not to realize that best friends make the best long-term lovers! Anyway, I’m taking a little break from this genre for awhile…
(38) The Five People You Meet in Heaven by Mitch Albom
I read this last night while I was suffering from insomnia. Quick engaging read with a sweet sappy message.
(39) Outlander by Diana Gabaldon
I have to admit I scoffed at the idea of this romance/historical novel. Over the summer, my dad was reading it, and I gave him all kinds of crap about it. But I also have to admit it was a fun read. The sexy stuff got a bit stale. Yes, yes, you’re crazy about each other. But the historical stuff was interesting. I look forward to the checking out the next book in the series.
(40) Despite the Falling Snow by Shamim Sarif
This beautiful book, full of twists and turns, bounces between Post-Stalinist Russia and modern-day Boston. A love story. A mystery. A darn good read.
(41) An Instance of the Fingerpost by Iain Pears
Most of this historical thriller was absolutely riveting, especially the details about health care in the 1600s. A story is told from the perspective of four different characters, each with very different ideas of how the events unfolded. I couldn’t have predicted the ending!
(42) The Twits by Roald Dahl
I read this children’s book to see whether it would be fun to teach in my ESL classes. Unfortunately, I found it a bit weak compared to some of Dahl’s other work.
(43) The Fixer by Bernard Malamud
Another Pulitzer Prize winner, this historical novel appealed to me on so many levels. I cherished the stunningly crafted descriptions of Tsarist Russia. I enjoyed the explorations of spirituality and politics. I felt indignation on behalf of the character, who was wrongly accused of a crime.
(44) 206 Bones by Kathy Reichs
This author never disappoints!
(45) Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie
This book was named Best of the Booker; of all the books that have won the Booker Prize, this book was considered the best. I found it to be an incredibly difficult read, mainly because I wanted to savor every word. The intermingling of Indian history with magic and fantasy created a riveting tale full of fully developed characters. So many voices, so much color.
(46) Loving Frank by Nancy Horan
This novel was based on the relationship between Frank Lloyd Wright and his mistress. It was interesting to look at the famous architect through another person’s eyes, but I thought the characters were all a bit too shallow. The ending threw me for a loop!
(47) Fatal Voyage by Kathy Reichs
This is the fourth installment in the series about Temperance Brennan, a forensic anthropologist. Somehow I’d missed this one. Always good fun, although I probably shouldn’t have read this one on a plane!
(48) Hearts of Horses by Molly Gloss
After reading so many heart-banging suspense novels and heavy works of literature lately, this book was like a gentle spring breeze. Artfully crafted descriptions and well-developed characters created a lovely – if not action-packed or emotionally challenging – story. As a horse lover, I empathized with the main character, and as a lover of historical fiction, I found the tales of pioneer life quite riveting.
(49) Tinkers by Paul Harding
This thin novel won the 2010 Pulitzer Prize for fiction. I wish I had kept count of how many times I set down the book to call Tony and read passages to him. It’s not hard to find a book that tells a good story, and it’s not hard to find a book full of fresh, creative wordplay, but it is truly rare to find a book that does both without diminishing either goal. Pages-long descriptions of things as banal as a still-life painting were mesmerizing.
(50) The Things They Carried by Tim O’Brien
This was one of the hardest books I’ve encountered lately. The writing flowed beautifully, and the stories were clear, but the topic was so painful. I’ve read heaps of fiction set in World War I and II, but I can’t recall reading any other Vietnam War novels. I suppose it’s a little too close to home with so many family members in the military, as well as friends and family who served in Vietnam. Still, it was an important book to read. As we ponder a trip to Vietnam in the spring, I will keep the images and events of this book in mind.
(51) Bright Lights, Big Ass by Jen Lancaster
I don’t really know why this book was on my kindle. Did I really purchase it? It’s not at all the type of stuff I usually read. Her writing style is sharp, sarcastic and judgmental – a lot like my own, I think. So why didn’t I love it more? I was quite amused by some of her antics, but I also got a bit bored when stories dragged on too long. Kudos to her, though, for getting off her big ass and getting her book published.
(52) Finding George Orwell in Burma by Emma Larkin
This book was a loaner, and I kept putting it off in favor of hand-picked goodies on my kindle. I finally gave it a go this weekend, and I read it straight through. I simply cannot praise it enough. I don’t need to dwell on my usual disdain for nonfiction; suffice it to say that I soaked up every word and alternated between wanting more about George Orwell and wanting more about Burma. I never got bored – not once! I never tired of the subject matter. Fascinating, fascinating, fascinating!!
(53) Breaking Dawn by Stephenie Meyer
I have to admit I enjoyed the Twilight series. But I also have to admit I’m happy it’s over. This culminating novel was a bit slow and the ending was surprisingly lame. All the other books featured nail-biting suspense and battles that kept me up reading late into the night. This one hinted at a big confrontation for hundreds of pages but ultimately petered out. Entertaining enough, but I’m over it.
(54) Broken for You by Stephanie Kallos
The plot summary for this novel sounded bleak: a woman dying from a brain tumor befriends a younger woman with heaps of emotional baggage and a broken heart. However, the story stayed bright, witty and uplifting with a completely fresh premise. Creative, meticulously researched and fun to read!
(55) Mudbound by Hillary Jordan
The characters in this post-WW2 novel personified many prevailing issues and emotions of that era: prejudice, the toll of war, oppression against women, and the American dream. It’s not a happy tale, but it was evocative and artfully written. I was sorry to see it end.
(56) Kaleidoscope by Dorothy Gilman
Gilman’s “Mrs. Pollifax” novels have been a favorite for a long time. When I realized I couldn’t load any of those on to my Kindle, I opted for this one. It didn’t do the trick. The stories seemed trite and the loose ends too easily tied.
(57) Dragonfly in Amber by Diana Gabaldon
2010 Reading Challenge Update
Before moving on to 2010, I want to offer a short list of my favorite reads from last year … in no particular order (some were published before 2009, I’m sure):
* Olive Kitteridge by Elizabeth Strout
* Pride and Prejudice and Zombies by Jane Austen and Seth Grahame-Smith
* Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert
* One Thousand White Women by Jim Fergus
* The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society by Mary Ann Shaffer and Annie Barrows
* The Other Hand by Chris Cleave (published in the U.S. under the title Little Bee)
* The Time Traveler’s Wife by Audrey Niffenegger
* Suite Francaise by Irene Nemirovsky
* Three Cups of Tea by Greg Mortensen and David Oliver Relin
* The Book of Salt by Monique Truong
… and I am not too proud to admit that I LOVED Twilight by Stephanie Meyer. Haven’t read New Moon yet!
As for 2010, I’ve been meaning to write about the books as soon as I finish them, but I’ve been traveling with my sister. She flew back to the States yesterday, so back to books …
I’m starting a list of the books I read, and I’ll just keep updating it as I go. (FYI, my blog won’t make italics. As a former editor, that is making me crazy.)
Click HERE for the link to my 2010 book list.
Meditating With Monks
After giving our bodies a good workout with the morning bike ride on Saturday, Megan and I gave our minds a good workout with an afternoon meditation at Wat Sokpaluang.
Although I can barely maneuver the motorbike with just me on it, I nervously drove the two of us the short distance to the temple. We walked around the shady grounds and sat on a bench for a while to listen to the monks chanting.
At 4 p.m., we climbed the steps to the covered deck of a small chapel, where three monks greeted us, and rows of cushions were laid out for visitors to sit facing the little Buddha shrine. About 20 people showed up for the meditation. The leader (a man from India, maybe?) noted that the temple started offering free weekly meditation sessions about 12 years ago for the local expats, but after a mention in the Lonely Planet guidebook, it now serves mostly tourists.
He explained that we would be practicing Vipassana (insight) Meditation. He gave us a silent mantra for the sitting meditation: “Bhu” on the inhale, “dho” on the exhale. We sat for about 20 minutes until he rang a bell, signaling the start of a walking meditation. At that point, we all got up and walked slowly around the chapel building for about 20 minutes, following his instructions for focusing our minds. At the signal, we returned to our cushions for another 20 minutes of seated meditation.
I was surprisingly successful at first. I stuck with the mantra and kept my focus on my breath. Every time a thought popped in to my head, I put it in a little boat and sailed it away. During the walking meditation, I also managed to stay in the moment and only needed a couple little boats to ferry away my invasive thoughts. Then it all fell apart during the final seated meditation. My back hurt from sitting up straight, and my mind wandered incessantly: Where would we go for dinner? I don’t want Megan to leave tomorrow! Don’t judge the two girls wearing next to nothing at the temple meditation. Boy, that coffee gave me the jitters. Ooooh, I can hear some monks chanting in a different temple building. Cool, now they’re banging some gongs. Ha! Every time, they bang the gongs, the neighborhood dogs bark their heads off. Shut up, brain!
So I spent 20 minutes in physical agony while a whole armada played bumper boats in my mind.
Still, I enjoyed the experience and told the leader I hoped to be back.
Here, Megan is relieved to have survived the motorbike ride and is ready to meditate at Sokpaluang Temple.
Cycling Sisters
Now that I’m back in Vientiane, it’s time to get back in the cycling groove. Team Dai is training for a 3-day, 400-kilometer ride to Phonsavan in March. I’m excited that they changed the destination from Luang Prabang (only because now I’ve BEEN to Luang Prabang – see my posts from last week, but I haven’t been to Phonsavan).
My sister Megan is visiting, so I proposed that we join Team Dai’s Saturday training ride. She agreed – with the disclaimer that she’s a runner not a cyclist, and I would have to promise to turn back whenever she got tired. “Sure,” I said. “No problem!”
We lowered the seat on Tony’s bike, and I generously gave up my gel seat cover for Megan’s tender bottom. And off we went. We met the team at the Patuxai Monument at 7 a.m. The route started on a paved road, but really “paved” is such a relative word. In many parts of the world, “paved” means smooth flat asphalt, which is a very nice surface for riding a bike. On this particular road, “paved” meant a hilly path with pockets of tar, pockets of rocks, and pockets of dirt. I can’t believe we didn’t (a) get a flat, or (b) lose any teeth.
About 30 minutes into the ride, Megan said, “I think I’m gonna want to turn back soon.” I ignored her the first few times. Then the team stopped for a pee break, and she said it more forcefully, “I think it’s time to TURN BACK.” So I had to ‘fess up. “Meg, I have no idea how to get home from here,” I said. She was not pleased. My sisterly vibe was sensing a major undercurrent of hate. But she put on a happy face and soldiered on. She’s such a trooper.
Our next rest stop was at a little waterfall. We ate bananas and chatted with the team. The ride organizer, Paul, explained that the hilly part of the ride was over. Then we rode out of the park, turned left and saw a small mountain. Later, Paul said, “Sorry, I forgot about that one!”
Eventually, we reached the Mekong River and followed it back to town. That’s when the pretense of pavement ended. No more pockets of tar; just pockets of rocks and dirt. When we dared to pull our eyes away from the obstacle course of a path, the scenery was gorgeous – rice fields, forests, villages, and all the usual goings on you see in river communities. Every time we rode through a village, children stopped playing to yell out “Sabaidee!” or just stare at the wacky group of “falang” with their fancy bikes and silly helmets.
Eventually, after 3 ½ hours and about 37 miles, we emerged in the middle of Vientiane and headed straight to a café for breakfast. I can’t even describe how much dirt coated our bodies. Meg had a little mud mustache from the sweat mixed with reddish dust, and I looked like I’d just spent a lot of money on bronzing powder. Later, we dragged our battered bodies to Manee Spa (across the street from my house) for a massage, but they were fully booked. We almost cried. Instead, we bought iced coffees from my favorite streetside coffee lady, Saeng, and watched Kung Fu Panda on TV.
For more on this fascinating topic, check out my earlier post on Team Dai and/or the team’s own website.
Megan rarin’ to go at the Patuxai Monument in Vientiane.
Megan feeling a little less enthusiastic at the waterfall break stop.
Wats ‘O’ the Week – Luang Prabang Temples
This week’s installment of Wat ‘O’ the Week comes to you from Luang Prabang, where my sister and I celebrated Wat Wednesday. The historic little city in northern Laos boats 32 Buddhist temples built before the French showed up in 1887 for 58 years of colonization. Much to Megan’s relief, I didn’t make her visit all of them.
We were on the quest of a particular novice monk, who chatted with my friends, Tony and Rand, during their visit to Luang Prabang last fall. So we started at the temple where he was supposed to be “stationed” (or whatever verb you use to describe where a monk lives). “Novice Lai works at Blah Blah Temple now,” a monk told us. Only he didn’t say “blah blah,” and we were too intimidated to ask for clarification. I thought I heard a word that started with “K,” and the monk gestured in a direction that had only a few more blocks before we would hit the confluence of the Kham and Mekong rivers. So how hard could it be?
Unfortunately, we never found Lai. Sometimes being a girl traveler is a real disadvantage, particularly when it comes to approaching monks. They were all friendly enough, but Meg and I both worried that we were violating some patriarchal protocol by walking past the regular temple buildings to hunt down Lai in the residential areas.
However, we did enjoy visiting a few temples before heading back to Vientiane. Here are some highlights:
Wat Sene Soukharama
Built in 1714, this temple had some interesting details.
The windows were pretty flashy.
In the Buddha chapel, I loved that someone put a tiny elephant on one of Buddha’s big toes.
This funky guy with a fish in his claws was a nice touch.
Wat Sop Sickharam
These monks picked a perfect spot for studying.
Rice cakes were drying in the sun at the temple.
Wat Sirimounkhounsayaram
We walked around this temple, but I didn’t take any photos. It wins the prize for longest name, though.
Wat Xieng Thong
This is Luang Prabang’s most famous temple. Construction on the sim (ordination hall) started in 1560 right on the banks of the Mekong River, and other buildings were added over the years. The sim’s sweeping roof is considered a hallmark of traditional Luang Prabang temple architecture.
The back of the sim features a spectacular “tree of life” mosaic, and similar mosaics cover the exterior walls of other buildings on the temple grounds, as well.
I always enjoy seeing daily life depicted in art like this detail of villagers cutting rice, particularly meaningful next to the offering of sticky rice that someone had placed on the ledge.
Inside the temple’s carriage house, we saw a 12-meter-high (39-foot-high) funeral carriage.
Pretty detail on the carriage house door.
We also liked this Buddha in the carriage house. He’s standing in the posture that’s often associated with making peace with relatives, but the expression on his face suggests he’s thinking, “Seriously, I have to break up another squabble? Come on, people! Where’s the love?”
Cookin’ Up a Lao Storm
As we all know, cooking is not my forte. (See my Christmas cookie post for background.) However, my baby sister, Megan, is quite at home in the kitchen and doesn’t shirk from scary paraphernalia such as the VitaMix and lemon zesters. Too broke to shop and too lazy to head out on an adventure tour, we signed up for a cooking class at Tamnak Lao Restaurant.
We met at the restaurant’s cooking school at 10 a.m. today. The rest of our class comprised an American couple working in Singapore, a French Canadian family on vacation, a German guy who leads bike tours in China and his parents, and a Danish university student. Of course, I just wanted to sit outside with a cold beer and chat with everyone. Fortunately, we had morning and afternoon “tea,” so there was plenty of time for socializing.
Our day started with a visit to the local market, where one of our teachers, Phia Yang, introduced us to Lao fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, rice, seasonings, and sauces. I’ve been to enough Asian markets that the icky stuff doesn’t faze me. That said, there was definitely some icky stuff. Perhaps the ickiest was a wooden chair that was obviously used for butchering animals. It was dripping with blood and fleshy bits. I took a photo, but I’m guessing most people would rather not see it.
One funny moment happened when a rooster made a break for it. He was captive at a chicken stall one minute, and then he squawked and leapt over the counter, literally running for his life. The vendor threw a potato to knock the rooster off his feet, but he missed. Whew! Unfortunately, the vendor eventually caught the feisty fellow and tied him up in a plastic bag, presumably for a customer.
Phia Yang teaches us about Lao herbs.
Learning about different kinds of rice.
Back at the cooking class, we watched Phia Yang and another teacher, Leng Lee, demonstrate how to prepare several Lao dishes.
Then we were on our own. Megan let me measure a few ingredients, and sometimes I even got to stir things around in the wok, but basically it was her show. We even had a code phrase for when I was getting in her way. She just said, “Why don’t you go take some pictures?”
Megan lets me measure some vinegar.
The loony chef.
By lunchtime, we had whipped up a tasty Luang Prabang salad and delicious Feu Khua (fried rice noodles with chicken and vegetables). Add a beer and friendly conversation with our classmates. Perfect!
In the afternoon, we did a less admirable job with Chicken Laap (minced chicken salad with herbs). We didn’t follow the recipe very carefully, so it turned out pretty dry and chewy. Our Oh Paedak (Lao pork casserole) was also less than impressive. It was supposed to be a soupy dish, but Megan and I couldn’t cope with the watery eggs, so we drained the liquid and served it on a plate instead of a bowl. Thanks, but no thanks. We hit the jackpot with Khua Maak Kheua Gap Moo (fried eggplant with pork). It was scrumptious! We also learned how to make sticky rice and Luang Prabang Chilli Paste, which was surprisingly sweet.
We left our cooking class with a cookbook and full tummies. Here’s the recipe for our favorite dish.
Khua Maak Kheua Gap Moo
Ingredients
60 grams pork (the recipe didn’t say what to do with the pork, so we chopped it in to bite-sized pieces)
3 large spring onions
1 Asian eggplant
2-3 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons oil
1. Cut the spring onion into 2-cm pieces. If the white part is large, cut it in half lengthwise.
2. Cut the eggplant into 3-cm pieces; then cut each piece in half lengthwise.
3. Crush the garlic in mortar or use a garlic press.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok, add the eggplant and stir fry until it begins to soften and turn a golden color.
5. Place the cooked eggplant in a dish and set aside.
6. Put the remaining oil into the wok with the crushed garlic, and stir until the garlic begins to change color.
7. Add the pork and keep stir frying until cooked.
8. Add the salt and sugar.
9. Keep stir frying and add the oyster sauce, onion, and cooked eggplant. Keep stir frying until the onions begin to soften.
10. Eat with sticky rice!