Tag Archives: New Delhi

Wedding Friday

Our wonderful week of wedding festivities flew by, and I found myself consumed by work and other obligations before I had finished blogging about the wedding day itself. So here goes.

Sanna and Madhavkrishna tied the knot at the Shangri La Hotel on Thursday, Jan. 31. Tony and I arrived on time, having missed ceremonies and performances Monday and Wednesday in our attempt to be fashionably late. At the hotel, we were directed to follow the lime green carpet to a spot where Sanaa’s family lingered excitedly. They encouraged us to stand with them to receive the “baraat.” The entrance to the venue featured musicians playing a drum (called a dhol) and an auspicious traditional oboe (called a shehnai).

Posing with the musicians in my borrowed sari.
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The baraat is a procession that brings the groom to the wedding venue. We’ve seen many of these processions around Delhi, often with the groom riding a white mare and accompanied by drummers and dancers. In this case, the groom arrived in a golf cart, preceded by a row of men carrying paintings of Hindu gods, and surrounded by revelers. His close male friends and family members sported bright orange turbans, while those on the bride’s side wore burgundy turbans. We later found out the turbans were a sign of honor, so we were touched that Sanaa’s brother, Karan, placed one on Tony’s head.

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When the baraat arrived, we watched Sanaa’s parents greet Madhav’s parents and other relatives ceremoniously with garlands.

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After all the groom’s guests had proceeded to the huge tent, the bride’s mother Alka started looking anxious. She craned her neck to see the hotel’s entrance, and then told us it was time for Sanaa to make her entrance. Finally, she emerged under a veil of flowers, flanked by her brother on one side and a girlfriend on the other. They walked her to a stage in the tent, where she and Madhav exchanged garlands.

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Researching the rituals of an Indian wedding is like trying to categorize India itself. The answers only lead to more questions. Hindus from different regions celebrate in different ways. At one point, even Sanaa’s brother couldn’t tell me what was going on. Sanaa’s parents sat with Madhav for quite a long time, following the priest’s directions, which included sprinkling various things on the groom’s hands and feet. I snapped a few photos, but I had no idea what I was shooting. After awhile, Sanaa was escorted over to join them, and a number of other rituals took place, some involving her beautifully hennaed feet.

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Next, they performed “pheras,” circling a pious fire seven times. According to Wikipedia (which aligned with several Indian culture websites but with better English):

1. In the first round or phera, the couple prays to God for plenty of nourishing and pure food. They pray to God to let them walk together so that they will get food.
2. In the second round, the couple prays to God for a healthy and prosperous life. They ask for the physical, spiritual and mental health from God.
3. In the third phera the couple prays to God for wealth. They ask God for the strength for both of them so that they can share the happiness and pain together. Also, they pray so that they can walk together to get wealth.
4. In the fourth round the couple prays to God for the increase in love and respect for each other and their respective families.
5. The bride and groom together pray for the beautiful, heroic and noble children from God in the fifth step.
6. In the sixth holy round around the fire, the couple asks for the peaceful long life with each other.
7. In the final seventh round the couple prays to god for companionship, togetherness, loyalty and understanding between themselves. They ask God to make them friends and give the maturity to carry out the friendship for lifetime. The husband says to his new wife that now they have become friends and they will not break their friendship in life.

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Congratulating the proud papa.
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Jasmine and marigolds everywhere!
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We left after the three-hour ceremony but before the dinner. (It was a school night!) Tony and I both feel deeply honored and grateful for the opportunity to participate in this gorgeous cultural experience, and we wish a lifetime of happiness to Sanaa and Madhav.

Sangeet Wednesday

If we felt confused about the mehendi party on Monday, this day was no different. The invitation said “Sangeet” and the bride’s mother had explained that it was the engagement party. An engagement party the day before the wedding? Clearly more research was needed. A google search yielded heaps of conflicting information, so once again it was trial by fire. In retrospect, this wedding planner’s website offers a Sangeet description similar to the one we attended Wednesday for Sanaa and Madhavkrishna. Bottom line: the Sangeet is a big party.

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Indians are not known for their punctuality. Apparently, members of the wedding party don’t know that. Tony and I didn’t want to be the only ones at the Sangeet, so we arrived at the Shangri-La Hotel ballroom about an hour late, unfortunately missing the ceremony. (Who knew there was going to be a ceremony?) We were told the bride, Sanaa, sang and danced, and other family members performed skits. Dang it! We got there in time to see Sreeram, winner of Indian Idol’s 5th season, though. He seemed disappointed at the empty dance floor. (I didn’t find out till later he was so famous, or I would have taken more photos.)
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We greeted Sanaa and Madhu. I felt like a fluttery nervous schoolgirl in the presence of a princess.
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I asked to see Sanaa’s mehendi, and she pointed out her fiance’s name painted on one hand and his initial “M” hidden in the henna swirls of the other hand. The groom-to-be is supposed to search for his hidden name in a romantic little game. This photo is blurry because the bossy handlers were rushing me.
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After mingling a bit, we followed the crowd to a large veranda, where dinner was being served. I couldn’t take my eyes off everyone’s clothes long enough to eat anything.
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With help from friends, I dressed more appropriately for the Sangeet, borrowing this gorgeous anarkali from Nancy, the gold shawl from Deepa, and the purse from Katrina.
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Mehendi Monday

As we wrap up a week of wedding festivities, I hardly know how to start writing about it. Like everything in India, the events were hard to process at the time.

Our landlord, Ashwani, and his wife, Alka, live downstairs with their daughter, Sanaa. Sanaa completed a master’s degree in England last year, returned to work in Delhi and recently announced her plans to marry childhood friend, Madhavkrishna. The proud parents invited us to three of the celebrations: Mehendi on Monday, Sangeet on Wednesday, and the wedding ceremony on Thursday. This was our first wedding in India, so we had absolutely no idea what to expect.

Workers draped the entire house in lights, and enclosed the courtyard with orange and gold fabric, woven to create a roof and walls. Garlands of marigolds and jasmine adorned the courtyard and stairwell.
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Last week, I had a quick chat with Alka, mother of the bride. I was feeling anxious about what to wear to these events, and Alka calmly assured me that whatever I wore would be fine. (Note to all Indian women: You do foreigners a big disservice by acting so nonchalant about such things. Please, I beg you, give us explicit instructions about how to comply with your cultural norms.)

Alka told me a “suit” would be appropriate for Monday’s mehendi party. “Suit” does not imply an Ally McBeal mini-skirt and jacket, as it did in the States back in the days I actually wore business suits. In India, a suit is a long top with blousy pants. This outfit ranges from relatively casual embroidered cotton to flowy embellished chiffon. With that in mind, I planned to wear my gray silk kurta (long top) and mauve choridar (tight-legged pants that gather at the ankle). Fortunately, I sought advice one more time from a cousin visiting from the States for the wedding. “It’ll be pretty fancy,” she said.

Panic set in. Right after school, I dashed off to Sarojini Market and popped in to a tiny dress shop. The salesclerk plopped one kurta after another on the counter, but my brain froze. I didn’t even know what to ask for. Finally I blurted, “I’m going to a mehendi party TONIGHT!” He swept all the kurtas off the counter and said, “Come in.” At the back of the shop, he started pulling packages off the shelves, whipping the brightly-colored garments out of the plastic and piling them in front of me. “This is the latest fashion,” he said. I picked one, tried it on over my dress, and realized it needed a little altering.

“Ten minutes,” the shopkeeper said. He then walked me around the corner to a bangle shop, which was packed with ladies. The bangle man stood behind a glass display case, surrounded by thousands of bangles in every size, color and degree of bling. Each lady in turn placed an item of clothing on the counter, and he quickly darted around his tiny space, pulling bracelets off the shelves and yelling requests to a worker in a storage space upstairs, who lowered bags of bangles through a hole in the awning. The banglemeister shuffled the delicate bracelets like cards, masterfully color-coordinating and arranging them on a wooden dowel, which he then held up to the light to dazzle the customer. I waited about 30 minutes for my turn. In the meantime, Tony had brought my perfectly altered dress (called an “anarkali”), so taking my cue from the Indian ladies, I placed it on the counter. Bangle Man gently felt my hand to determine the size and then flitted about, collecting fuchsia, black, green and gold bangles of varying widths and flashiness. I bought 20 bangles for each arm, which turned out to be excessive, but I couldn’t resist!

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Tony was an extremely reluctant chaperone on this night because his Indian colleagues at school had told him this was a ladies-only event. In fact, my online research supports their claims. Based on what I read, I was expecting an intimate but lively evening with ladies sprawled out on cushions, offering marriage advice to young Sanaa while classical musicians played in the background and mehendi artists painted henna designs on our hands. However, father-of-the-bride Ashwani explicitly invited Tony to the mehendi party. See why confusion is our constant companion in India?

The mehendi party took place at a hotel, and the minute we stepped into the foyer, I knew we were out of our league. Far from intimate, the hotel ballroom filled with more than a hundred guests. My new anarkali felt extremely casual among ladies draped in saris and dripping with jewels. Feeling self-conscious, I quickly left the crowd to get my hands painted. The one fabulous part of my outfit – the glittery bangles – only made a brief appearance, as I had to remove them for mehendi. For most of the night, I walked around with wet henna, unable to hold a glass or eat any of the appetizers. While Tony took advantage of the open bar and omnipresent strolling waiters, I let go of my wardrobe worries and chatted with other guests, trying not to smear the mehendi. Eventually, I brushed off some of the crusty dried henna to sample the snacks and wine, but I learned my lesson. The more experienced wedding-goers explained that I should only get one hand painted next time to free up the other hand for eating and drinking.

The bride’s brother, Karan, gave a sweet speech about his little sister, and the crowd began to dance.

Tony and I felt humbled by the family’s kindness and inclusive spirit. We never stood alone or felt left out, and we enjoyed interesting conversations with visitors from all over the world, including Denver, San Francisco, Singapore and other cities in India. Shortly before midnight, we said our good-byes.
“You’re not staying for the dinner?” people asked.
We didn’t even realize they were serving dinner! But, no thank you, we told them. It was already way past our bed time on a school night, and we knew it was going to be a long week.

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I brushed off the dry mehendi a bit prematurely, and I didn’t coat my hands in oil before going to bed, so the henna design isn’t as vibrant as it otherwise would have been. Still fantastic, though!
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This is a bad photo taken with Tony’s phone while I was trying not to mess up my hands, but I wanted to show Sanaa’s beautiful orange sari. She and her groom-to-be were watching the entertainment.
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The luxury of electricity

Since returning to Delhi last weekend, I’ve been itching to sit down and write on my blog. Unfortunately, January is the chilliest time of year, and we don’t have indoor heat. We work all day at a toasty-warm school and then return home to frigid temperatures, where the concrete walls and floors trap the cold. Every evening after school, we bundled up in layers, ate dinner on our guest bed with a space heater positioned at our feet, and watched sitcoms on hulu till bedtime. I could barely hold a fork, much less type with my popsicle fingers. The sun finally peeked out yesterday, warming up the air. I looked forward to spending the weekend culling photos and documenting our Christmas. I got up early and was just ready to sit down at my computer when – pop! – the power went off. Good thing I had already made coffee! Back-up batteries protect our electronics, but we have to shut everything down when we lose power. The school sent an electrician, who “fixed” the problem, just in time for me to leave for a baby shower (without bathing – no working water heaters). As soon as I got home, I flipped on my computer, started to write a post, and – pop! – the power went off AGAIN. This time, I stomped around the house, whined a lot, ate half a bag of Chips Ahoy cookies, and barked sarcastic comments at Tony.

I went out to the stairwell to look at the breaker box. This is what I saw.
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About 5 minutes later, beep! – the power was back on. No telling how long we’ll have this luxury, so I’d better hustle.

Winter break is here! Halleluiah!

It’s the last day of the semester, and only a half day at that. You know what that means! Lots of squirrely, excited teachers students. Kids shared their travels plans – from Alaska to Australia and everywhere in between, said their good-byes to children moving on permanently, made play dates with friends who were spending the holiday in Delhi, watched movies and discussed their holiday traditions.

For many international students and teachers, winter break is especially anticipated. Some of us chose this lifestyle for the opportunity to see the world, and this is our longest vacation of the school year – three weeks of travel time. Some of us struggle with living so far away from our loved ones, and this holiday season is a time for reunions. Some of us just need a break from all things unfamiliar and frustrating.

That sappy stuff doesn’t stop kids from being kids, though.

First thing this morning, I went to my usual third-grade classroom where I chatted with the teacher while students arrived. A burst of giggling got our attention, so we both turned to see what was so funny. Two boys had curled into balls, stretched their hoodies over their entire bodies, pulled the drawstrings closed and were now rolling around the floor, bumping into desk legs and eliciting howls of laughter from onlookers. The teacher and I couldn’t help but crack up. Yep, it’s time for vacation!

Later I headed next door to see my other morning group of third graders. Remember those three little boys who had the deep discussion about U.S. presidents a few months ago? During “free choice” writing time this morning, they decided to write comic books. I sat down with them to admire the creative collaboration. Brilliant stuff.

Boy 1: Look! We’re starting every comic book like this, “I was walking down the street when suddenly…” And then something exciting is gonna happen!
Boy 2: We’re all different superheroes, but we’re like a superhero team.
Me: What are your super powers?
Boy 1: I can shoot ice out of my hands.
Boy 2: I can jump really far.
Boy 3: I can teleport.
Boy 1 to Boy 2: Oh! You can be rainbow colored, so when you jump really far, you make a big rainbow and the bad guys will be all “ooooh, look at the rainbow!” and then I’ll shoot ice at them and freeze them.
Boy 2 to Boy 3: And then you can grab the bad guys and teleport them to another dimension. Like they could be trapped in Captain America’s shield!
Boy 3: Yeah!

In 11 hours, Tony and I will be heading to the airport for our long journey back to the States. This is our first family Christmas in America since we moved overseas 12 years ago! Man, I sure wish I could teleport.

Bye-bye, kiddos! See ya in 2013!
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Oh, say can you see … how weird Delhi is?

Not too far from my neighborhood, there’s a fab Japanese restaurant, Kylin, that offers an amazing deal on an upscale Sunday lunch. We celebrated my friend Nancy’s birthday at Kylin last weekend. As we gorged on tempura, satay, tasty salads and dim sum, we jammed to 80s rock, techno dance tracks, mellow flute-y tunes and other random musical selections blasting from their loudspeakers. Nothing distracted us from socializing … until THIS! As you can see, the Canadians at our table are thrilled. Peter tried to interject “O Canada” to no avail, and you can hear his daughter ask, “Is this their national anthem?” I’m sure the waiters thought a table of expats would appreciate the “Star Spangled Banner,” never mind their nationalities.
Just a typical day in New Delhi.

Dengue Fever – no dang fun

This is the (insert string of expletives here) type of mosquito that infected me with Dengue Fever and made the last two weeks so miserable.
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Check out the World Health Organization fact sheet on dengue for lots of fascinating facts, like these: The Aedes aegypti mosquito lives in urban habitats and breeds mostly in man-made containers. Unlike other mosquitoes Ae. aegypti is a daytime feeder; its peak biting periods are early in the morning and in the evening before dusk. Female Ae. aegypti bites multiple people during each feeding period.

I know exactly where and when the little bastard got me. I was just sitting down to dinner with two girlfriends at one of my favorite little restaurants in the funky Hauz Khas neighborhood when I felt the suspicious itch of a new mosquito bite on my ankle. Just as predicted by WHO, symptoms started about a week later. As usual, I had doused myself in mosquito repellant, joking that I was statistically more likely to get DEET poisoning than any mosquito-borne tropical illness. I double-jinxed myself with the stupid quip that dengue would make a cool blog post. Let me make it clear up front that the opportunity to share my first-hand account of dengue in NO WAY redeems the experience.

Here’s how it played out.
Sunday, Oct. 14, I was goofing around at my computer, when suddenly, my back felt like someone had just bashed it with a lead pipe. It came on that fast. One second, I was sitting up tall, feeling fine. The next second, I was crumpled on the bed. Dengue is sometimes called “broken bone disease,” and now I know why. If any part of my body made contact with any surface, the pain was unbearable. I couldn’t lie down or even sit in a cushy chair, but I didn’t have the strength to hold myself upright. It truly felt like all my bones were broken. That lasted for two days.

My temperature hovered around 102 degrees for several days, but I thought I was well enough by Thursday, Oct. 18, to attend parent conferences at school. I muddled through four meetings and then conceded I wasn’t strong enough to return for the next day’s conferences. I contacted Martin, the phlebotomist recommended by our school, who came to my house to take blood for the dengue test. It came back negative, and another test two days later also returned a negative report. Our school doctor suggested I might just have some random virus.

On Friday, a couple new symptoms started. A rash blanketed my chest and back but didn’t bother me too much. However, the palms of my hands felt like electrical worms were burrowing around, causing spastic jolts of intense burning. Ice packs provided the only relief, but you can’t just cling to ice. It gets too cold, and you have to take a break. But the minute I would let go, the stabs of fire would start again. Even if I held on for dear life, the ice eventually melted, and I had to get out of bed to put the packs back in the freezer. I spent two sleepless nights sobbing with fiery hands.

The middle school play took my mind off my symptoms for a few hours on Friday and Saturday. I had organized the make-up crew, but because of my illness I had missed the dress rehearsal. I know they would have been just fine without me, but I couldn’t stand to skip the shows. Friday, I helped the make-up crew set up their supplies, and I stuck around till the curtain call to supervise their work and clean-up. By Saturday, I knew I wasn’t up for a repeat performance. I trudged in for the matinee, got the group started and then headed home before intermission. From all accounts it went fine, but I felt so frustrated not to participate 100 percent.

A week after the symptoms started, I dragged myself out of the house for a second opinion. I visited the office of Dr. Chawla, a gentle Sikh physician, who gave me hard-core antihistamines to stop the electric worms and administered another blood test, which came back positive for dengue. He phoned me later and warned that my blood platelets were low, so I returned to his office on Monday for more blood work. Fortunately, that test showed my platelets rebounding.

During the first 10 days or so, I couldn’t even sit up in bed. I couldn’t read. I couldn’t check my email. I tried to FaceTime and Skype with friends and family, but I couldn’t hold up the iPad for more than a few minutes, and the constant headache behind my eyes made conversation uncomfortable. I had to force myself to eat and drink. At one point, I slept for about 18 hours. Tony came home from work and had trouble rousing me.

Now, two weeks later, I have minor burning in my hands and my energy level is nearly nonexistent. I can’t imagine how I’ll get up for school tomorrow after missing two weeks. The crazy thing is I had a fairly MILD case of dengue! We have friends here and in Laos who suffered far, far worse symptoms than I had. My parents had a driver in Saudi Arabia, whose young daughter died of dengue in Sri Lanka. I escaped relatively unscathed.

As of yesterday, New Delhi had reported 835 cases of dengue, including two deaths, this year so far. The “dengue season” generally extends from the end of the monsoon in September, when standing water provides prime mosquito breeding areas, until temperatures drop enough to discourage mosquito reproduction, which should be in the next few weeks.

There is no vaccine or cure, although Indians offer plenty of ayurvedic treatments for the symptoms. For example, I am drinking liquified papaya tree leaves each morning in the hopes it will restore my strength. It’s worth a shot!

You can dress her up, but you can’t take her out

The last fun experience I had (before dengue smacked me down) combined two of my favorite things: Canadians and Thanksgiving!
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The 2012 Canadian Thanksgiving Ball took place Oct. 13 at the home of the Canadian High Commissioner in New Delhi. The annual event raises money for CanAssist, a local fundraising society that supports organizations and groups working to promote the self-sufficiency of women and children through health and educational initiatives.

Despite a bruised toe that prompted a last-minute exchange of my stunning 5-inch Steve Maddens for a pair of bejeweled flats, I still enjoyed puttin’ on the ritz. Formal events in India get eclectic with western-style gowns mixed with elegant saris, tuxedos mingling with beaded kurtas. An occasional kilt and/or red dinner jacket lent a true Canadian vibe.
Posers at the entrance.
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So elegant.
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Token Canadians at our table.
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Lovely ladies.
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Bustin’ a move.
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I did learn a valuable lesson on this night. Well, it’s a lesson I’ve “learned” many times but haven’t seemed to actually internalize. Here it is: You can’t slam glass after glass of champagne, eat everything on the buffet table (including all six desserts) and then immediately pounce out to the dance floor to flaunt your most spectacular moves in front of a massive fan to AC/DC’s “You Shook Me All Night Long.” Especially when you’re wearing heavy Indian earrings.

Unfortunately, the belly bouncing took its toll, so I headed home, nauseated and with very sore earlobes, well before midnight. I could blame Dengue Fever, which hit me with full force the following afternoon, but I’m sure it was the second piece of pumpkin pie. Or maybe the chocolate torte.

Happy Thanksgiving, Canada!

Wacky wall painting brings smiles to all who enter

This is the first time I’ve sat up at my computer for more than 10 minutes since I was smacked in the face with Dengue Fever. I’ll write more about that experience later, but I figure I’ve got the strength to crank out one post, and I want to show you our spectacular wall painting.

Browsing at the Surajkund Mela last February, I enjoyed everything the handicrafts fair had to offer. I was especially attracted to Madhubani Painting, a colorful 2-dimensional folk art from the Indian state of Bihar. Many artists had their work on display, but I was drawn to the paintings of Sarita Devi, whose card listed a studio not far from our Delhi home.

After the furniture delivery debacle that gouged up our foyer wall a few months ago, I dug out Sarita Devi’s card and wrote an email asking if she would be interested in painting our wall. Someone with broken English wrote back with a collection of paintings to consider. I picked my favorite parts of several different paintings and then invited the artist to visit our home.

Thinking Sarita Devi was coming, I was surprised to get a phone call from a young man asking, “Please tell me the landmark to find your house.” I tried to explain, but that phrase was apparently the extent of his English. Ultimately, I walked a couple blocks to meet him at a restaurant. Two men – early 20s, I guessed – approached me. “Are you …?” I didn’t want to plant the seed if these were just random men, but one of them finally finished my sentence. “We are from Mithila Madhubani Painting.” OK.
“So, are you the artist?” I asked one of the boys.
“Yes,” he said.
“Are you also an artist?” I asked the other.
“Yes,” he said.
I think I could have asked anything, and they would have said, “yes.”
“Umm… I thought Sarita Devi was coming,” I said.
“Yes, my mother,” said one of the boys, whose name was Neeraj.
At my house, Neeraj looked at the printouts of the paintings, and I showed him the wall to be painted.
Tony and I tried with minimal success to discuss the project with the two young men. We figured out Neeraj’s friend was along as a translator, but his English was only marginally better than my nonexistent Hindi. I couldn’t help wondering if these guys were actually just casing our apartment (expat paranoia often steps in to fill the void created by an insurmountable language barrier). Ultimately, we scheduled another visit for a time when my housekeeper Raji would be there. That visit turned out to be more fruitful. Raji clarified our expectations and helped create a schedule for the artists.

Sarita Devi, Neeraj, and usually two or three others crouched in our narrow foyer for up to 10 hours a day, sketching and painting the elaborate scene. One day I got an email from Neeraj asking if they could add some squirrels. Why not?

Tony and I loved coming home every day to see what they had accomplished. The whole painting took 10 days.
They did a great job working around this ugly light switch and the clunky doorbell.
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That’s Sarita Devi in the back, painting with her daughter.
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The artists pose with the finished wall. Sarita Devi with her three kids, Deepa, Ashish and Neeraj.
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This is what you see when you walk in our front door.
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One of the squirrels. Ha!
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Love the fish.
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The pink circles are nests, and the jellybeans are actually mangoes. “It’s a mango tree,” Neeraj explained.
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He pointed to this black bird and said, “Crow.” Pointing to the two fancy birds in the middle, he said, “Peacock.” When I asked about all the other birds, he pointed to each one and said, “Bird, bird, bird.” Ohhhhh … duh.
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The light switch practically disappeared into the scene!
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Sarita Devi signed the wall with her name, the date and … phone number.
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We know we can’t take this artwork with us when we leave India (although we have the mock-up painting on paper). However, every time we come home to our Delhi apartment, that crazy wall of whimsy makes us smile.

Furniture shopping – it’s all fun and games till someone breaks a window

All last year, our TV sat on top of a cute little Tibetan cabinet I bought in China. The cords and cables intertwined with those of the stereo system and DVD player to form a spaghetti-esque jumble on a school-provided coffee table stashed behind the cabinet. Every time I entered the living room, the cord jumble caught my eye and made me cringe, but wall sconces and our massive Chinese day bed limited our ability to rearrange the furniture. Sliding all over the New Delhi learning curve, I couldn’t cope with shopping for a TV cabinet. When we returned to India in August – no longer the “newbies” and equipped with our own car and driver – I felt ready to take on the challenge. Or so I thought. As it turned out, finding a cabinet was the easy part.

My friend Sandra wanted to visit Gujarat Haveli, a furniture showroom on the outskirts of town. With her husband, Dan, and our new counselor, Holli, we browsed through disorganized acres of random furnishings salvaged from homes, temples, palaces and other buildings mostly in the western state of Gujarat. It took a good eye to spot treasures in the dank cavernous storage areas.

Intricately carved wooden arches leaned against large trunks adorned with stamped-tin peacocks and secured with heavy metal locks. Thick with dust, broken chairs, benches, wide shallow bowls, and splintered distressed boards with protruding nails towered toward the flickering florescent lights. One room featured a lacy wooden screen about 15 feet high and 40 feet long. Narrow paths wove between stacked dressers, cabinets, bookshelves, headboards, mirrors, desks, and random carved figures, some small enough to sit on a shelf and some taller than me. I kept giggling in the spirit of discovery. Occasionally I would stop walking, stand in place, peruse my immediate vicinity and try to process every item in sight, but it was impossible. Looking at my photos, I spot objects I missed in person.

I became a little obsessed with this piece, which must have been a door frame. It’s huge. It would take up most of a wall in our apartment. It would be an irrational purchase, but I keep dreaming of it all cleaned up and polished.
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Outdoors, exposed to the monsoon rains, beautiful doors, lintels and other carved woodwork leaned against the buildings.
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A mountain of scrap metal teetering outside one warehouse had – upon closer inspection – lovely wrought-iron artwork with curlicue designs peeking out from rusted wire and brass pots.
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Dan named this basin of water “the dengue pot.” After battling dengue fever last year, he has legitimate reasons to fear standing water and mosquito breeding grounds.
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The big head sitting among other knick-knacks amused me.
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Here are some more photos.

Fortunately, some of the warehouse space showcased finished furnishings, slightly more organized and somewhat easier to scrutinize. In addition to the restored antiques, the company sells new pieces – some built from scratch, some using old wood.
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In one of those rooms, I found exactly what I needed! The company’s owner said the front and sides of the cabinet were built from old hardwood, but the back is new. It’s hard to know what to believe. All I know is I like it.
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By the end of our visit, we had all purchased some large pieces, so we arranged for delivery the next day. That’s where this story takes a turn for the worse.

On Sunday, Aug. 12, the day after our shopping excursion, I looked out the window of our second-story apartment to see a truck and half a dozen scrawny delivery men. Tony ran downstairs to ensure our new cabinet could fit in the narrow stairwell. Otherwise, we could hoist it up to our balcony, which the moving company did with all our other large furniture. He came back upstairs and reported the cabinet was small enough to clear the ceiling and our doorway if it came up the stairs. The delivery men simply needed to carry it upright. Soon after making this determination, we heard a loud smashing sound, followed by another and another. Frozen in shock, we reacted slowly. By the time we got to the stairwell, the cream-colored walls were streaked with red from the battered corners of our new cabinet. The men had turned it sideways for the trip up the stairs. At the bend, they discovered the cabinet was too long to make the turn. They apparently believed the wall would somehow yield if they swung the cabinet around the corner hard enough.

Tony shouted, “Stop! Stop!” But before they could process his instructions, they gave the cabinet one more big heave, which smashed out the stairwell window. This was too much for me to handle with grace. While Tony turns angry in the face of excessive stress, I often start laughing hysterically. (Ask my dad to tell the story of his newly painted garage and my newly acquired driver’s license.) So I started to laugh and shriek. “They BROKE the freakin’ window!” I howled. Tony was bellowing and dropping f-bombs, but the delivery men didn’t seem to understand and continued their pillage up our stairs.

At the doorway to our foyer, they could have turned the cabinet upright and inched it into the living room. Instead, they kept it on its side and, like a battering ram, pounded it into the entrance wall repeatedly, gouging out chunks of plaster and molding, ripping the doorbell off its mounting, and breaking a foot off the cabinet. When one of the men handed Tony the foot, I thought my husband’s head would explode.

I stopped laughing and quickly dialed Jagdish, the owner of Gujarat Haveli. As I explained the situation, Tony hollered in the background, “It’s like a car full of clowns tried to carry our cabinet up the stairs!”

Jagdish agreed to come immediately to see the damage. Tony admonished the delivery men and told them not to go anywhere until Jagdish arrived, but they made a break for it when we weren’t paying attention. When Jagdish got to our home, I started laughing again. Honestly, I didn’t even know what to say. Tony and I pointed out the damage in our stairwell and in our foyer. We showed him the broken cabinet. He shook his head and looked dismayed. He expressed frustration with his employees. He offered to fix the window and instructed a workman to reattach the cabinet’s broken foot, but otherwise he made no attempt to compensate us.

We had expected him to gush with apologies and perhaps even offer a token gift from his showroom or a discount on our cabinet. That didn’t happen. Jagdish kept asking, “Madam, what do you want? What would make you happy?” I honestly didn’t know. We still owed him about half the cost of the cabinet, but we weren’t ready to hand over the cash. We told him we needed to think about it. On his way out the door, he turned back and said, “You know, such things happen. You could be out driving your car and someone hits you.”

“Yes, and then they would have to pay for it,” I said, overenunciating “pay.”

“Not in India!” he responded. And off he went.

Stunned, Tony and I sat silently for a few minutes. We discussed the situation and agreed that we would rather have our school’s maintenance department fix the window. Otherwise, we’d have no recourse if it were done badly. I called Jagdish and reminded him that he had asked what would make me happy. Here’s what I told him:

“I like your warehouse. You have beautiful pieces, and your prices are lower than other places in Delhi. I believe you are essentially an honest man with poorly trained delivery men. I want to recommend your company to my friends and colleagues at the American Embassy School. However, you have to understand we expect a certain level of customer service. We shouldn’t have to beg for it. If you or your employees cause any inconvenience to your customers, you need to immediately make some gesture to express your sincere apology and appreciation. I don’t want you to fix the window or paint my walls, but I do want you to make such a gesture.”

Unable to fathom my meaning, he kept asking for a specific request, so I insisted on a small reduction in the price of my purchase.

He tried to explain how that cabinet sells for a much higher price and he already gave me a steep discount, which led me to say once again, “They BROKE a freakin’ window.” We ultimately came to an agreement, and he turned his car around to come back for the rest of his money.

Despite the delivery drama, we do love our new cabinet.
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