Category Archives: Pandemic Diary – The Lost Year

Pandemic Diary – A Year in a Nutshell

Day 4 of hotel quarantine here in Santiago, Chile. They brought our breakfast coffee at 11 a.m., by which time I was ready to launch myself out the window. We get sprung tomorrow, but then we have to do five more days of quarantine at our apartment. Apparently, the government makes unscheduled visits to make sure you’re home.

The whole last year has been a blur, but I looked over photos, messages, and Facebook to try to resurrect my life. Here goes:

The second semester of our 2019-20 school year was nuts. Covid arrived on March 3, 2020, and our last day of school in person was March 16.

Here’s an example of what teaching on Zoom looked like. This was my advisory, a group of 8th graders. Notice only four showed their faces enough to be recognized. (I blocked them here for privacy.) We finished out the semester like this.

Our short summer break passed, and I was still in Florida. I stayed longer than planned after my flight was canceled and I realized school would start on Zoom because of Chile’s lockdown. I rarely left my house, filling my time with sudoku puzzles, yoga, learning ukulele, and studying Spanish. My mom popped over for happy hour on my back porch most evenings. I also visited my sister, Megan, in Destin, when my other sister, Kate, drove with her kids from Michigan for the July 4th weekend.

I launched an English teaching project as part of Heart for Venezuela, a foundation started by teachers at my school to help Venezuelan immigrants settle in Chile. My program evolved into a high school club, where I train Nido High School students how to teach English and then match them with children from our Venezuelan families. I thought we might get 5-10 volunteers, but it quickly exploded. Soon I was working with around 50 students! This was, without a doubt, the most rewarding experience of the last year.

I returned to Chile August 30 and reunited with Tony and our cat, Ella. I got out of quarantine on Sept. 14, but Chile’s on-and-off lockdowns continued. In July, the country had adopted an approach called “Paso a Paso.” It assigned each communa a phase that determined how open it could be. For example, Phase 1 was full quarantine. Phase 2 offered more freedoms, but we still couldn’t travel to other regions of Chile, and we had evening and weekend curfews. And so on.

At this point in the pandemic, it felt like an experiment that would run its course, and then life would get back to normal. We chuckled at memes like this:

We fashioned homemade masks, and mostly stayed home. We stood in line to get in to the supermarket and laughed about how we had plenty of toilet paper here in Chile but very little meat. (Chileans love their asados!) The front desk of our apartment was roped off. I joined the throngs learning how to bake bread (a couple fails, but eventually it worked).

In November, assuming we would return to school in person before the end of the semester (we didn’t), Nido issued masks and face shields. We joked around with them. It all felt so unreal.

For entertainment, we met friends for socially distanced outdoor and/or Zoom happy hours and book clubs, went on walks in town and hikes in the countryside, and watched a lot of Netflix.

On the first anniversary of my father’s death, I took the day off work and headed to a nature sanctuary in the Andes foothills. I hiked for a few hours and later rolled out my yoga mat next to a stream, where I also ate lunch, read, and took a little nap. I guess I thought my dad would manifest as a hawk or even a lizard. I was hoping for a sign that he was nearby. I even shouted for him from the top of a deserted hill. Nada. Anyway, it was rejuvenating to get outside and stash my mask for the day in honor of my dad.

I got out of town for two weekends in November: first, a ladies wine escape, and then Thanksgiving at the beach.

The weekend of Nov. 14, seven of us headed to an incredible Airbnb in one of Chile’s wine regions, Santa Cruz. The sprawling home sat adjacent to a small reservoir surrounded by idyllic farmland. We took turns making meals, and everyone brought their A-game to the kitchen. (Disclaimer: I only contributed a cheese platter.) We also practiced yoga, had a raucous dance party, sipped wine on the terrace, and visited three wineries: Vino Bello, Montes, and Laura Hartwig. It was wonderful to escape from the city, but I felt a degree of social anxiety brought on by so much uncertainty related to the pandemic.

For the long Thanksgiving weekend, Tony and I traveled to Matanzas, which combined many of my favorite things: the beach, horses, yoga, wine, and friends. We got an Airbnb with our frequent travel partners, Stella and Ian, and their girls. Always a lovely time with that clan.

In December, we moved to a different Santiago apartment, owned by former Nido teachers Pi and Laura, who had started teaching at a school in Panama. Our new place is smaller, but bright and cozy with a much shorter commute to school. In addition, it’s right at the base of Cerro San Cristobal, a part of the Andes foothills with a huge city park featuring lots of hiking and biking trails. In the other direction, we have easy access to fun parts of the city (during normal times) with restaurants, bars, shops, museums, markets, and more. The only drawback is our tiny parking space, wedged between a wall and a neighbor’s SUV. Tony and I have each broken a taillight learning to navigate this parking garage.

For the semester break, Tony and I traveled to Florida for two weeks, leaving Ella in the care of one of Tony’s former students, Tami. Christmas was lame. No family, no tree, no presents, no fancy meal. I don’t even remember how we spent the day. My mom was invited to a friend’s house for dinner, and my sister Megan was entertaining her in-laws. A few days later, however, we drove to Destin to hang out with Meg’s family, which made up for the boring start of our vacation.

Back in Chile, we took off for another beach outing with Stella and Ian, not realizing at the time that it would be our last trip together, thanks to Covid. The road in and out of Puertocillo essentially involved driving down a cliff face on rutted dirt roads and hairpin curves. Our little Toyota barely survived the journey and ultimately couldn’t handle the final approach to our Airbnb, which was perched at the top of a steep hill. We had to park at the bottom and march like sherpas with our stuff up to the house.

During the school year, we taught on Zoom, in a hybrid model (Room & Zoom at the same time), and in person with all kids present. However, I’ve lost track of how long we used each model. All I know is that it was exhausting. Here’s a shot of an outdoor assembly during our in-person stint:

The day after my birthday, I got my first Covid vaccine, which was a huge relief. A month later, I was fully vaccinated.

At international schools, the end of the school year is bittersweet. We celebrate the year’s accomplishments and look forward to the upcoming vacation, but we also have to say good-bye to friends moving on to other adventures. Usually, the calendar fills up with farewell parties, weekend get-aways, and other special events. Thanks to Covid, this year was different. I didn’t even get to say good-bye to some departing friends.

I attended one fiesta clandestina for Genevieve, a friend who is moving to Kuwait.

And we managed to plan one last ladies weekend for Stella before she and her family moved to Morocco. Nestled in the mountains next to a river, our Airbnb was like a salve for my soul. The caretaker, Francisco, lived in a small house on the property with a horse, a dog, and a coop full of chickens. My heart soared each time he let the chickens loose to run around the property scratching for bugs. One day, Francisco led us on a path crunchy with autumn leaves to reach a paved trail up the hill. He also built a big fire for us outside at night. Otherwise, we hung out, ate, drank, read, danced, and napped.

The Support Services team (EAL and Learning Support) also had a gathering for Stella. It’s always hard when a great colleague decides to leave, but it’s even harder when that colleague is also a great friend.

Well, that was supposed to be a year in a nutshell, but it was a much bigger nut than I had anticipated.

Pandemic Diary – More than a year later …

… and we’re still wearing masks.

Who would have thought? I haven’t blogged in more than a year because there wasn’t much to blog about. Sure, I had an occasional fun moment or illicit getaway weekend, but my heart wasn’t in it. Still isn’t, to be honest. But I find I don’t remember my own life unless I write about it, so here goes.

I’ll work backwards chronologically, starting here , in quarantine at the Sheraton Santiago Hotel and Convention Center. Our view from jail (too bad we can’t leave our room):

Tony and I arrived Friday (July 16) after spending a month in the States. Chile’s borders remain closed, so as our school year was wrapping up in June, we had to get special permission to travel. I wrote a plea intended to tug at the heartstrings of some bored government official, begging for permission to attend a family reunion for my father’s memorial. Although my dad died in 2019, Covid-19 has prevented the family from getting together.

I submitted my father’s death certificate, his obituary, our house rental reservation in New Jersey, and our airline tickets, along with my passionate request (in Spanish, no less). We were approved in minutes, much to my relief! We know people who had to submit several applications before receiving approval to leave the country.

Next we had to find a cat sitter. We usually use a website called Trusted Housesitters that matches us with travelers who want to visit Chile. Unfortunately, nobody’s visiting Chile these days. Our cat, Ella, is so spoiled that we wanted someone who would stay at our apartment instead of just popping in to feed her. Finally, we found a young Korean teacher, who can’t get back to Asia right now (Covid!). Stuck in Chile, she agreed to hang out with Ella for the break. (Thank you, Hyejee!)

Then our flights got cancelled 4 days before the scheduled departure. Arrrggghhh!!! Fortunately, I was able to rebook. Our school provided PCR tests for those of us traveling (the U.S. requires a negative test within 72 hours of leaving Chile), so we did that, but I was stressed that one of us would come back with a false positive. Also, rumors were flying about whether flights would actually leave, so I couldn’t relax until our plane landed at the Miami International Airport. Which it did, on June 19. Whew! (Travel buddies Ian and Berlin sat behind us.)

We picked up our rental car and drove about 5 hours to The Villages in central Florida, where we have a house. (Quick side note: It’s available as a seasonal rental. Check out the listing here.)

Florida’s freedom took some getting used to. After almost two years of donning masks, teaching on Zoom, living in on-and-off lockdown, and generally wallowing in Covid-induced paranoia, we were shocked to find this at the Spanish Springs town square. Crowds mobbed the streets for an antique car show, danced to the live music, and sipped beer with friends. It was like a parallel universe.

Fully vaccinated and starting to relax a bit, we ditched the masks after a couple days and began to enjoy poolside sunshine and cocktails. We even went to the movies for the first time in ages. The musical theatre freak in me couldn’t wait to see In the Heights, and I didn’t stop singing those tunes for days afterward. We ate at restaurants (although we still chose to dine al fresco) and otherwise soaked up the energy of other people, which had been so long absent from our lives.

After a week, I left Tony in Florida and flew north to meet the rest of my family in New Jersey. Although my father was from Seattle, he soon adopted my mother’s love of the Jersey Shore. A Philly girl, my mom grew up vacationing in Ocean City, NJ, and that tradition continues. My father had requested that we scatter his ashes in two places: Washington state and Ocean City.

Washington will have to wait for another time. This summer, we descended on the beach, or rather a few blocks from the beach. One big house for 14 people, including seven kids.

10th & Central, Ocean City

We realized we all felt nostalgia for different aspects of this place. For my brother, it was crabbing at the wharf. For my sister Kate, it was riding bikes on the boardwalk. For my sister Meg, it was the boardwalk, bikes, and breakfast at Uncle Bill’s Pancake House. For my mom, it was coffee with dad on the boardwalk and crabbing.

For me, it was two things: walking on the boardwalk and playing in the water. On our last trip to the shore, my dad and I got up before everyone else for an early morning walk to the Ocean City Coffee Company on the boardwalk and then a stroll on the beach with our coffee. We would grab a bench and chat about life while also providing a snarky running commentary on the other people out at that hour. Of course, the ocean is my passion, and I have many memories of body surfing with my dad in the frigid water of the Atlantic.

During this visit, I got up early most mornings and walked by myself, grabbing a coffee on the way back to the house. I would whip up some eggs for whoever wanted them and eat breakfast on the porch before we all paraded to the beach.

The little cousins splashed in the chilly water, buried each other in the sand, played wiffle ball and beach tennis, and built sandcastles for hours while the adults mostly lounged in the shade of rented umbrellas. Occasionally, someone would wander up to the boardwalk and return with lemonade and corndogs, pizza, or french fries to share. Every now and then, I mustered the courage to brave the sharp shells at the edge of the surf and that first icy blast of sea water. I jumped through the waves with Kate or my nephews, shrieking each time we received a salty smack in the face or a surprisingly strong undercurrent. I tried to absorb that bliss into my bones for later. (Click on the pics to see them full-size.)

The kids entertained themselves back at the house, as well. Kate broke out a tackle box of tiny rubber bands sorted by color, a gift from a neighbor whose child had tired of the craft. The cousins made bracelets and rings for each of us, and then someone told them, “You should go outside and try to sell these to people.”

We all laughed, reminiscing about when mom made us paint clam shells and try to sell them on the boardwalk when we were kids. The rubber band jewelry turned out to be a bigger hit than expected.

The little entrepreneurs went to work making signs to advertise their prices, maniacally building up their inventory, and approaching strangers on the sidewalk to promote their wares.

We adults were touched at how kind everyone was to the wee jewelers. One lady told them she didn’t have any cash but that she’d come back, and she did! Another couple actually stood in line to buy a bracelet. The kids accosted a teen in a McDonald’s uniform, who told them he didn’t have any money, so they offered him a ring for free. He chose a pink one and thanked them with a big smile. Their efforts brought in $54. They were thrilled. We were shocked.

When they weren’t making rubber jewelry, they were obsessing about Pokémon. I took a few of them out for a Pokémon GO walk one afternoon.

The munchkins also had fun tie-dying T-shirts. Summer brought all the supplies, and this was the result:

During our stay at the beach, we were excited to get visits from a few extended family members: Aunt Iris (my mom’s sister); Uncle Bill (my mom’s brother) and his significant other, Judy; cousin Amy, her husband, Billy, and their kids, Jake, Dylan, and Alex; and cousin Karen, her boyfriend, Mike, and her son, Robbie. It was great to catch up with everyone!

Mom and Aunt Iris
The gang with Uncle Bill, Judy, Karen, and Robbie
Amy’s family at the beach with us

As tradition dictates, we went to breakfast at Uncle Bill’s Pancake House one morning. We had planned to take my father’s ashes to scatter some outside, but we forgot to grab the box. My sister-in-law, Summer, offered to run back to the house to get it. We assumed she’d leave it in the van, but she brought it into the restaurant, which was weirdly perfect in this memorial week. We had the waitress take a shot of all of us, including “Pop.”

After breakfast, I took out a little packet of dad’s ashes, and poured them into a flower pot outside the restaurant. Kate and I burst into tears. When I got in the van, my niece Katie asked why I was crying. “I miss Pop,” I said. I miss him so much.

Later, I walked to the coffee shop and sprinkled some ashes in one of their flower pots. I hope dad can smell that coffee wafting on the ocean breeze.

On our last evening at the beach, Kate and I found a secluded spot and built a primitive little castle. All the beach toys had already been packed, so we did the best we could with our hands. We poured some ashes into the moat, and sat on a towel to share memories of our dad. Megan and Mike joined us after a bit. We watched the next generation run, splash, and laugh, knowing dad would have loved it. Mom walked down the beach for her own private memorial.

After awhile, the kids found a tide pool full of tiny gelatinous organisms. Kate did some quick research on her phone and discovered they were “naked sea butterflies,” translucent shell-less mollusks with orange heads and tails, which usually live deep in the Arctic and Antarctic oceans. Kate reminded me how dad would often say, “Isn’t that neat?” at times like this. We could both hear him say it as we gazed down at the mesmerizing creatures in the surf.

We all waited for the tide to reach our little castle and carry Pop out to sea. It felt like a beautiful tribute to a man who loved us and loved this place so deeply.

The next day, we checked out, and I drove with Kate back to her house in Michigan. We paused at Chick-fil-A for a parking lot lunch with Meg, who was heading to Virginia to visit her brother-in-law’s family. She joined us in Michigan after a couple days.

Getting attacked in the Chick-fil-A parking lot.

At Kate’s house, we soaked up the sunshine, watched monarch butterflies lay eggs on her milkweed, played in the pool, watched movies, and tried to get out in nature (but the mosquitos were brutal).

Snuggling with Paul
Quiet time
Playing chicken in the pool
My send-off

And before I knew it, I was heading back to Florida.

Tony and I realized it was our first time at our house without any family members in town. We hardly knew what to do with our time. We spent much of it reading at the pool, and we tried to go for walks in the morning before it got too hot. We also discovered Eaton’s Beach on Lake Weir, just 15 minutes away. It was the best food I had all summer!

Flying back to Chile was uneventful. Arriving in Chile during a pandemic was another story. Before our flight, we had to get a PCR test to prove we didn’t have Covid, complete an affidavit, and book a hotel where we would spend the first five days in quarantine. It took 5 1/2 hours to complete the arrival process, which included standing at a table where someone re-entered all our information on a form by hand, getting another PCR test, and waiting for a bus that transported everyone to their respective hotels.

And that brings me back to the Sheraton in Santiago, where Tony and I are on day 3 of our 5-day hotel quarantine. Stay tuned for more stories from my lost year.