Countryside Cycling

We had such a great day yesterday with the guys from Phat Tire that we decided to hang out with them again today!

Despite our sore muscles from Marble Mountain, we hopped on bikes and hit the road bright and early with Khanh and Thao (who, coincidentally, was the smart-ass who made the “piece of cake” comment at the rock wall yesterday!). They were fantastic guides and showed us “real Vietnam” away from all the touristy attractions.

We caught a ferry, along with many other commuters, and crossed the river to the village of Nhon Boi.
Standing on the ferry with Thao.
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Disembarking at the village.
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We pedaled through villages and past vast rice fields.
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Rice plants turn the most gorgeous shades of green and yellow.
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We watched people drying peanuts on the road,
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walking a pig,
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and hanging up fishing nets.
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Pausing for a snack, we played with this little cutie.
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Khanh and Thao cuddled and coddled him, begging for kisses before giving him cookies. I commented about how we are so overprotective of children in North America. Khanh laughed and said our little friend probably wanders into all the neighbors’ houses and throughout the village, and his mother can be assured that he is safe and well fed.
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Khanh demonstrated how to walk from land to the boat on the bamboo pole. “Easy!” he said.
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Soon after our snack break, we came to a rickety bamboo bridge. Thao rode ahead with my camera to take shots of Tony and me. But once I got on the bridge, I chickened out. I jumped off the bike and walked it about half way. Thao chided me and suggested I switch to low gear, so I bravely and tensely cycled the second half. I asked if anyone ever falls off. “Sometimes,” he said. “when they have too much beer.”

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After awhile, we stopped at a home to see women weaving traditional mats from coconut fronds. They peel the fronds into strips, dry them, dye them with natural and chemical pigments, and then weave them on this traditional loom. The warp “threads” were thin fibers from a coconut tree trunk.

One jovial young woman twisted a strip of coconut frond onto a shuttle and then whipped it through the loom. An older woman used a wooden beater to push the strip tight and then knotted the loose end. They worked quickly and cheerfully, and I couldn’t even tell what their hands were doing.
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Of course, they encouraged me to give it a go, and I was completely idiotic. I slammed the beater too hard. I didn’t tie the knots properly. The old woman kept swatting my hand, as though that would remind me of the proper way to tie a coconut frond knot. A little crowd of villagers gathered to watch me mangle the mat. We all got a good laugh out of it.
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The rest of the bike ride was rich with scenery and smiles. Highlights included villagers who shouted “hello!” as we passed, school kids heading home for lunch, a palm farm, a chat with a mama water buffalo and her baby, an organic farm (where they fertilize with seaweed), a Viet Cong cemetery, a duck crossing, another ferry ride and many fishing traps and nets.

Ducks out for a bike ride of their own.
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Tony, Khanh and Thao on the ferry back to Hoi An.
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Viet Cong village cemetery.
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Palm tree fronds drying in the sun.
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Fish traps.
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Traffic jam.
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Waterfront property.
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“Take your bike over by the buffalo, and I’ll take a picture,” said Thao. Then she charged me. Baby nearby. Duh. Wish I could say that was the first time I’d made THAT mistake.

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Year of the Cat?

The other day, I blogged about the floating light sculptures on the river here in Hoi An. I expressed confusion over this basket of cats, which seemed so out of place.
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Fortunately, my friend Diana, who lives in Saigon, cleared up the mystery. Although China is celebrating the Year of the Rabbit, Vietnam is celebrating the Year of the Cat!

Wanting to know more, I did a little search and found this interesting article:

How the Chinese rabbit became a cat in Vietnam

HANOI – While much of Asia celebrates the Year of the Rabbit, Vietnam is striking a note of independence from the dominance of Chinese culture and marking the beginning of the Year of the Cat.
The two communist countries remain ideological allies and have endorsed a similar transition to a market-oriented economy.
But their relationship evokes strong emotions and contradictions in Vietnam, where many bitterly recall 1,000 years of Chinese occupation and, more recently, a 1979 border war.
While the smaller nation has held onto many Chinese words, customs and traditions, it still feels a strong need to set itself apart from its giant neighbor.
The two countries share 10 of the zodiac calendar’s 12 signs– the rat, tiger, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig. But the Vietnamese replace the rabbit with the cat and the ox with the buffalo.
Exactly why they opted for different animals remains unclear, but several scholars say the split can be traced back to the founding legends of the zodiac calendar.
One of these stories goes that Buddha invited animals to take part in a race across a river and the first 12 to reach the shore would have the honor of appearing on the calendar.
Unable to swim, close friends the cat and rat decided to hitch a ride on the ox’s back. But as they approached the finish line, the two-faced rodent allegedly pushed the cat into the water — and the pair have been sworn enemies ever since.
The Vietnamese tell the tale somewhat differently. According to them, it was the Jade Emperor, a Taoist god, who organized the race. And in their version, the cat knows how to swim.
“There are anthropological and cultural explanations,” said Philippe Papin, an expert on Vietnamese history at the Ecole Pratique des Hautes Etudes in Paris.
But since many of today’s Vietnamese have Chinese origins, the most likely explanation lies in linguistics, he said.
“The Chinese word for rabbit is ‘mao’, which sounds like ‘meo’ in Vietnamese, where it means cat. As the sound of the word changed, so did its meaning,” Papin said.
Regardless of how the split came about, the Vietnamese today have no interest in bringing their zodiac signs into line with the Middle Kingdom.
“For the Vietnamese, it’s a matter of national honour not to have copied China completely,” said Benoit de Treglode, from the Research Institute on Contemporary Southeast Asia in Bangkok.
“This form of distinction in imitation can be found throughout Vietnamese culture,” he added.
Politics play a role too with Beijing and Hanoi increasingly at odds over a number of long-running territorial disputes.
“We don’t know exactly how the selection of these 12 animals happened,” said Dao Thanh Huyen, an independent journalist based in Hanoi.
But “now that the words ‘China’ and ‘Chinese’ can become a source of controversy or even lead to arguments, many Vietnamese are happy not to be like their neighbor, even if it is fairly silly to take these things too seriously.”
Hoang Phat Trieu, a retired Vietnamese actor, says his compatriots simply prefer cats to rabbits.
“Most of the Vietnamese people are farmers,” the 76-year-old said. “The rabbit has nothing to do with Vietnamese farmers, while the cat has always been a very good friend of farmers, trying to kill the rats that threaten their crops.”
As Vietnam marks its Tet Lunar New Year on Thursday, those born in the Years of the Rat, the Horse or the Rooster will be careful not to be the first to enter a house — as this is said to attract bad luck.
“This year is going to be an average year according to fortune tellers,” said Huyen. But she hopes her husband and son, both Dogs in the zodiac calendar, will make the year more interesting than the disappointingly dull prediction.
“Everybody knows how cats and dogs get on,” she said, proving that the desire to make astrological predictions work in your favour is universal.
In that, at least, the Chinese and the Vietnamese are alike.