Fast Food Nation at last, alas

Residents of Vientiane jonesing for a Frapuccino, Big Mac or KFC hot wings just have to get over it … or get over the border. All those things can be found in Thailand, just a few short miles away. Until last week, Laos was fast-food franchise-free, and many of us liked it that way. You can get the best coffee of your life on almost any street corner for less than $1, and while several restaurants have mastered slobber-inducing burgers and other tasty Western fare, that’s not what attracted us to Southeast Asia.

Last week, however, Vientiane’s first international fast-food restaurants opened their doors: Swensen’s ice cream parlor and The Pizza Company. The Lao-Thai venture cost $500,000. The two shops occupy one building in the shadow of the National Culture Hall with a parking attendant and first-class service.

Here’s my favorite quote from the Vientiane Times article about the franchise opening:

The manager said that she had confidence that her fast food service would be attractive to many Lao people, especially the middle- and high-income ones.

Considering Laos’ per capita income is around $800 a year, I’m guessing she’s on to something.

We checked it out on opening day, but frightened away by the prices, we walked a few blocks further and ordered pizza at the independently owned Swedish Baking House. (My attempt to boycott the cookie-cutter chain wasn’t entirely successful: Tony got a double scoop of cookies-n-cream in a waffle cone.)

We wandered over to that neck of the woods again today. The waitresses really freak out when you try to order at the counter. They prefer that you sit at a table and peruse the menu before ordering your ice cream, even if it’s just a cone to go.

I barely had enough time to snap this photo; my ice cream was melting all over Tony’s hand. Today’s high was 99F/37C. No wonder all the upper-class fast-food junkies enjoy their treats inside.
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Biking to Breakfast in Thailand

What a busy week! The weekend’s already here, and I still haven’t posted anything from LAST weekend.

Last Sunday, I cycled to Thailand with a group to cheer for a few Team Dai members who were participating in a triathlon. The Thai-Lao border is only 16 kilometers from my house in Vientiane. At the border crossing, we filled out customs paperwork, got our passports stamped and pedaled across the Friendship Bridge, which spans the Mekong River. On the other side, we filled out more paperwork to enter Thailand and got another passport stamp.
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We could see the triathlon venue from the bridge, so we cycled along till we found the transition staging area. From there, we watched our friends swim by in the strong Mekong current. We cheered loud enough that Eelco actually stopped, looked up and waved! He competed in the race with his son JJ, along with another father-son team, Maurice Sr. and Jr. When they got out of the water and jumped on their bikes, we hollered some more, and Eelco’s wife Nicolette actually stopped them for a quick chat.

Standing on the banks of the Mekong in Thailand, we looked across at Laos and down at our friends swimming in the triathlon.
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Maurice and Maurice pull their bikes out of the transition area.
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Eelco comes out with a borrowed helmet. He and JJ had forgotten theirs and almost got disqualified. Luckily our friends were standing by with their own bike helmets!
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Nicolette has a quick chat with her two boys before they tackle the cycling leg of the race.
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After the competitors took off on their bikes, we cheerleaders walked the short distance to Mut Mee Guesthouse for a nice breakfast and later cycled back to Laos. How often can you ride your bike to another country and be home in time for lunch?