Art, tree talk, ancient ruins and laundry – strolling near Mandi House

To kick off our 4-day weekend, I hooked up with my go-to gal for walking tours – Surekha of Delhi Metro Walks. Yesterday’s tour started near Mandi House, Delhi’s cultural hub. Surekha introduced us to an area of town that glittered with art, theatre and innovative architecture in the 1950s. We meandered down quiet shady lanes, making note of the many museums, art galleries, performance venues and other cultural attractions, many of which helped to bring Delhi into the modern era. My favorite spots on this walking tour were most definitely NOT modern, but I’ll save the best for last.

I bet you don’t think of scenes like THIS when you picture New Delhi! Wide sidewalks free of dogs, cows and monkeys – such a treat.
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Allow me a short vent about how frustrating it is that most Delhi cultural outlets do NOT have their own website. It takes a LOT of legwork to find out what’s going on at these places. Nevertheless, based on the walking tour, here are newly added items on my to-to list:
* Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra, a Delhi cultural institution, has staged the Ramlila every autumn since 1957, telling the story of Ram through music, dance and drama. According to the organization’s website, “The story of Ram has been handed down to us as ‘the conquest of good over evil’. Ram’s life consists of a multitude of episodes where his divinity and compassion come forth. It is time to lift the subtle but impregnable veil that lies between the divine and us, thereby making our own lives more meaningful.”

* Triveni Kala Sangam, a center for arts education, performance and exhibition, is housed in a historic building designed by American architect Joseph Stein. With several galleries and auditoriums, a sculpture garden and terrace cafe, it’s a place worthy of lingering.

* A Hindustan Times article from last year described the Shri Ram Centre for Performing Arts as “one of the most prominent cultural organisations of the Capital.” It offers up plays in both Hindi and English, so I’ll have to keep an eye out for an English-language production. The building, designed by Indian architect Shiv Nath Prasad, was inspired by the poured-concrete modernism of the West in the late ’60s and early ’70s and is considered innovative for its seemingly gravity-defying cylindrical base topped with an overhanging rectangle. Although not necessarily attractive, the performing arts center was especially meaningful for me in that Tony’s father was a successful architect in Kansas City during the same era and designed precisely the same style of buildings!

* Safdar Hashmi Memorial Trust honors Safdar Hashmi, a political activist and actor who was murdered while performing a street play in 1989. This organization actually DOES have a website: sahmat.org, which explains that SAHMAT promotes performances, exhibitions, book publications, posters, audio recordings, and so on to “uphold the values of secularism and cultural pluralism … and to underline the concept of unity in diversity of the Indian nation and the people.”

Surekha (and many of her groupies) love discussing the local flora, so she often pauses the walking tour to consult her Trees of Delhi book and share the wisdom. I know this is a genuine passion for many people, and I do appreciate the presence of so much green in this big city; I just don’t need to know the names of everything. I’d rather spend more time on the history and the culture. Anyway, here’s a cool tree we talked about. No, I don’t remember its name.
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OK, I have to admit this tree is pretty amazing. A wee part of me wishes I had paid attention when Surekha identified it.
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I remember that this one was the Sandpaper Tree, and sure enough, Kathleen said, “Its leaves feel sandpapery!”
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Another interesting stop on the tour was a former palace built by a Bahawalpur prince in 1937. Now home to the National School of Dance and other offices, the white-washed palace stands strong, but the once impressive gardens were sacrificed to the city’s growing metro system.
Katrina rests and enjoys a view of the metro construction site.
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Surekha shares the history of the building and efforts to conserve it.
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A cobbled-together Shiva shrine at the site.
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After an introduction to modern Delhi’s cultural scene, we walked through a gate and back in time for a rest stop at Agrasen ki Baoli, a 14th-century step well.
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Perched at the top of 103 steep steps, we enjoyed cookies and tea poured by the local chai wallah.
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Surekha explained that during her last visit to the baoli, she ran into her friend’s driver and asked, “What are you doing here?” He was flustered and clearly didn’t want to say. Then she noticed her friend’s son selling chai. He had apparently quit his job to start his chai business and then struck a deal with his mother’s driver – a ride to work in exchange for free tea. So Surekha struck her own deal – she’ll keep her mouth closed in exchange for tea breaks for her tour groups.

With Connaught Place – Delhi’s high-rise financial and commercial district – in the background, the historic baoli offered a beautiful juxtaposition.
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Our posse – Katrina, Nancy, me, Beth, Kathleen.
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Leaving the baoli, we had walked only a short distance when we started to see bed sheets and clothes drying in the streets.
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I knew we were getting close to the Devi Prasad Sadan Dhobi Ghat, an open-air laundromat where washermen – called dhobis – wash clothes and linens for local hotels, businesses and families. I had been looking forward to this all day!

Various styles of wash basins filled the courtyard. Some men bent over raised tubs, scrubbing with coarse brushes. Others stood thigh-deep in sunken tubs, swishing laundry through the soapy water. Others worked in elevated cubicles, flogging wet towels on concrete tables before draping them over a wall. Machines lined the perimeter, but these were unlike any washing machines I had ever seen.

This friendly dhobi stood by as bubbles poured out of his washing machine.
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This lady was cooking up something liquidy and white over the fire. I asked if it was food, but she explained (through an interpreter) that she was making starch from arrowroot powder.
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No electric dryer here.
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Ironing pile. Ugh. Women do the ironing here in this small dark room.
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Folding the sheets.
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Outside the dhobi ghat.
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According to the Hindustan Times (May 21, 2011), 35 dhobis work at the ghat. They charge 15 rupees (28 cents) per item. In an emergency, you can pay 20 rupees (37 cents) and have it delivered within four hours.

Leaving the dhobi ghat, we spotted this security guard getting a curbside shave. Surekha made us all pose around him for a photo! The barber got a good laugh out of it, but I think his client was unimpressed.
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Presidential confusion

Here is a conversation from my morning in third grade. Kids were “shopping for books” in the classroom library, and these little boys were obsessed with a book about Abe Lincoln. (Names have been changed to protect the sweet innocent little ding dongs.)
Bob: Abraham Lincoln is my favorite president.
Me: Why?
Bob: Because he has a cool hat and he carries an ax.
Tom: And he hunts vampires.
Bob: Yeah, he hunts vampires.
Me: Hmmm … you know that’s just a movie, right? He didn’t really hunt vampires. I don’t think he carried an ax around, either.
Bob: He still has a cool hat.
Tom: My second favorite president is George Washington Carver.
Me: OK … he actually wasn’t a president. George Washington was president. George Washington CARVER invented peanut butter. So that’s still pretty special.
Tom: Oh, that’s awesome.
Bob: You know who else was cool? John Adams and his brother John Q. Adams.
Me: Right. Ummm … John Adams was the dad of John Quincy Adams. They weren’t brothers.
Bob: Oh, but they’re still really cool.
Me: Hey, do you want me to find some books on American presidents for you guys?
Bob: Yeah! I like to read about them.
Me: That’s a good plan. I’m on it.

Sparks fly at middle school play practice

I have filled my life with drama this year. School drama, that is.

Today we had a rehearsal for the middle school play, “The Fireworks Maker’s Daughter,” and the drama teacher, Thaba, wanted students to think about the physicality of working with and watching fireworks. Obviously, we won’t set off real fireworks in the theater, so she elicited ideas about how the stagecraft class might design props and explained that dancers will BE the fireworks in some scenes. To spark their imaginations, she brought them all to the field for a mid-day fireworks show.

Students crowded around our visiting fireworks expert, Mohinder, who unloaded a big bag of goodies. Thaba reminded kids to closely monitor the actions involved in lighting fireworks. As the fireworks exploded, shrieked, swirled, whistled, and showered sparks, she encouraged actors and dancers to remember their own physical reactions. Back in the rehearsal space, students debriefed and shared fantastic insights gleaned from the experience.

Such a fun, creative, caring bunch of adults. Such talented, reflective, committed kids. Sometimes I have to pinch myself.
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Furniture shopping – it’s all fun and games till someone breaks a window

All last year, our TV sat on top of a cute little Tibetan cabinet I bought in China. The cords and cables intertwined with those of the stereo system and DVD player to form a spaghetti-esque jumble on a school-provided coffee table stashed behind the cabinet. Every time I entered the living room, the cord jumble caught my eye and made me cringe, but wall sconces and our massive Chinese day bed limited our ability to rearrange the furniture. Sliding all over the New Delhi learning curve, I couldn’t cope with shopping for a TV cabinet. When we returned to India in August – no longer the “newbies” and equipped with our own car and driver – I felt ready to take on the challenge. Or so I thought. As it turned out, finding a cabinet was the easy part.

My friend Sandra wanted to visit Gujarat Haveli, a furniture showroom on the outskirts of town. With her husband, Dan, and our new counselor, Holli, we browsed through disorganized acres of random furnishings salvaged from homes, temples, palaces and other buildings mostly in the western state of Gujarat. It took a good eye to spot treasures in the dank cavernous storage areas.

Intricately carved wooden arches leaned against large trunks adorned with stamped-tin peacocks and secured with heavy metal locks. Thick with dust, broken chairs, benches, wide shallow bowls, and splintered distressed boards with protruding nails towered toward the flickering florescent lights. One room featured a lacy wooden screen about 15 feet high and 40 feet long. Narrow paths wove between stacked dressers, cabinets, bookshelves, headboards, mirrors, desks, and random carved figures, some small enough to sit on a shelf and some taller than me. I kept giggling in the spirit of discovery. Occasionally I would stop walking, stand in place, peruse my immediate vicinity and try to process every item in sight, but it was impossible. Looking at my photos, I spot objects I missed in person.

I became a little obsessed with this piece, which must have been a door frame. It’s huge. It would take up most of a wall in our apartment. It would be an irrational purchase, but I keep dreaming of it all cleaned up and polished.
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Outdoors, exposed to the monsoon rains, beautiful doors, lintels and other carved woodwork leaned against the buildings.
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A mountain of scrap metal teetering outside one warehouse had – upon closer inspection – lovely wrought-iron artwork with curlicue designs peeking out from rusted wire and brass pots.
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Dan named this basin of water “the dengue pot.” After battling dengue fever last year, he has legitimate reasons to fear standing water and mosquito breeding grounds.
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The big head sitting among other knick-knacks amused me.
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Here are some more photos.

Fortunately, some of the warehouse space showcased finished furnishings, slightly more organized and somewhat easier to scrutinize. In addition to the restored antiques, the company sells new pieces – some built from scratch, some using old wood.
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In one of those rooms, I found exactly what I needed! The company’s owner said the front and sides of the cabinet were built from old hardwood, but the back is new. It’s hard to know what to believe. All I know is I like it.
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By the end of our visit, we had all purchased some large pieces, so we arranged for delivery the next day. That’s where this story takes a turn for the worse.

On Sunday, Aug. 12, the day after our shopping excursion, I looked out the window of our second-story apartment to see a truck and half a dozen scrawny delivery men. Tony ran downstairs to ensure our new cabinet could fit in the narrow stairwell. Otherwise, we could hoist it up to our balcony, which the moving company did with all our other large furniture. He came back upstairs and reported the cabinet was small enough to clear the ceiling and our doorway if it came up the stairs. The delivery men simply needed to carry it upright. Soon after making this determination, we heard a loud smashing sound, followed by another and another. Frozen in shock, we reacted slowly. By the time we got to the stairwell, the cream-colored walls were streaked with red from the battered corners of our new cabinet. The men had turned it sideways for the trip up the stairs. At the bend, they discovered the cabinet was too long to make the turn. They apparently believed the wall would somehow yield if they swung the cabinet around the corner hard enough.

Tony shouted, “Stop! Stop!” But before they could process his instructions, they gave the cabinet one more big heave, which smashed out the stairwell window. This was too much for me to handle with grace. While Tony turns angry in the face of excessive stress, I often start laughing hysterically. (Ask my dad to tell the story of his newly painted garage and my newly acquired driver’s license.) So I started to laugh and shriek. “They BROKE the freakin’ window!” I howled. Tony was bellowing and dropping f-bombs, but the delivery men didn’t seem to understand and continued their pillage up our stairs.

At the doorway to our foyer, they could have turned the cabinet upright and inched it into the living room. Instead, they kept it on its side and, like a battering ram, pounded it into the entrance wall repeatedly, gouging out chunks of plaster and molding, ripping the doorbell off its mounting, and breaking a foot off the cabinet. When one of the men handed Tony the foot, I thought my husband’s head would explode.

I stopped laughing and quickly dialed Jagdish, the owner of Gujarat Haveli. As I explained the situation, Tony hollered in the background, “It’s like a car full of clowns tried to carry our cabinet up the stairs!”

Jagdish agreed to come immediately to see the damage. Tony admonished the delivery men and told them not to go anywhere until Jagdish arrived, but they made a break for it when we weren’t paying attention. When Jagdish got to our home, I started laughing again. Honestly, I didn’t even know what to say. Tony and I pointed out the damage in our stairwell and in our foyer. We showed him the broken cabinet. He shook his head and looked dismayed. He expressed frustration with his employees. He offered to fix the window and instructed a workman to reattach the cabinet’s broken foot, but otherwise he made no attempt to compensate us.

We had expected him to gush with apologies and perhaps even offer a token gift from his showroom or a discount on our cabinet. That didn’t happen. Jagdish kept asking, “Madam, what do you want? What would make you happy?” I honestly didn’t know. We still owed him about half the cost of the cabinet, but we weren’t ready to hand over the cash. We told him we needed to think about it. On his way out the door, he turned back and said, “You know, such things happen. You could be out driving your car and someone hits you.”

“Yes, and then they would have to pay for it,” I said, overenunciating “pay.”

“Not in India!” he responded. And off he went.

Stunned, Tony and I sat silently for a few minutes. We discussed the situation and agreed that we would rather have our school’s maintenance department fix the window. Otherwise, we’d have no recourse if it were done badly. I called Jagdish and reminded him that he had asked what would make me happy. Here’s what I told him:

“I like your warehouse. You have beautiful pieces, and your prices are lower than other places in Delhi. I believe you are essentially an honest man with poorly trained delivery men. I want to recommend your company to my friends and colleagues at the American Embassy School. However, you have to understand we expect a certain level of customer service. We shouldn’t have to beg for it. If you or your employees cause any inconvenience to your customers, you need to immediately make some gesture to express your sincere apology and appreciation. I don’t want you to fix the window or paint my walls, but I do want you to make such a gesture.”

Unable to fathom my meaning, he kept asking for a specific request, so I insisted on a small reduction in the price of my purchase.

He tried to explain how that cabinet sells for a much higher price and he already gave me a steep discount, which led me to say once again, “They BROKE a freakin’ window.” We ultimately came to an agreement, and he turned his car around to come back for the rest of his money.

Despite the delivery drama, we do love our new cabinet.
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